Re: Sticky brakes

["Stella Chia" <stelc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi All

I've got many replies all telling me to replace the brake hoses.   However,
Mark Battley seems to have pointed me in another less obvious direction.  It
started me thinking...

I just recalled that some months ago, my brake lights would not go out after
I parked the car.  I disconnected the offending switch on the firewall and
the problem went away.  I thought nothing more of it other than a
malfunctioning switch but now it IS a sign of some residual pressure in the
lines (Clue no 1).

Having said that I must say that I have added a separate microswitch with
relay switching at the brake pedal to override and increase the brake light
reaction time.  I didn't like the pressure activated switches which I
thought were too slow for city drivers behind to react to.

Come to think of it, it WAS the front brake circuit light switch I
disconnected, I don't know why I thought only the front brakes locked, just
felt like it and perhaps the little shuddering sounds disc brakes make with
just enough pressure to begin grabbing.  But since I don't experience any
pulling they must both lock, or maybe even the rear lock too except not
strongly enough for me to notice.  Somehow, as many mentioned, to have both
brake hoses fail together is pretty coincidental (Clue no 3).

I doubt that it could be seizing pistons because I replace the pads recently
and pushed the pistons back, even replace the boots.  It would then be
pretty darn coincidental.   I also had experience with siezed pistons on my
ex-Fiat 124 Spider and this dosen't feel like it.

Before I had the master cylinder replaced, I was having problems with a low
pedal and tried to adjust the m.c. "clearance" on the piston push rod.  What
happened was that the brakes locked and held after application of the
brakes.  Could this be a milder case of that no/too little clearance
syndrome?  It didn't cross my mind then (Clue no 2).

My mechanic did the earlier mentioned repairs as I thought it would be safer
than olde
unqualified me doing it, so I haven't been in there since.  Anyway, I got
out my trusty 17mm wrench and opened up the m/c casing, and there wasn't any
free play at all.  I don't know where it went or whether it was there in the
first place.

My Brooklands manual calls for a minimum of 1mm.  Conveniently, again the
17mm wrench was all that was needed.  So anti-climatic, I know, but 5
minutes and one 17mm wrench and the stickiness went away.  Didn't even dirty
my hands with latex gloves on!

Once again, I couldn't do it without you guys!  Thanks to all who responded.

Andrew
71 1300 GTj

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