Re: IT RUNS!! WOOHOO!!!

[Angus Holliday <trstag@domain.elided>]

 I'm still planning on changing the timing chains and 
>spockets and cleaning out the oil pump pickup strainer as recommended by the 
>Practical Classics book.
If the chains rattle or the tensioner is out too far then change the chains,
I wouldn't bother with the strainer unless the pan is down for something
else.  I've never seen a clogged one.

>I do have a few questions:
>1.  Oil pressure was right at 40 psi at idle (40 wt; 65 deg F).  Does this 
>sound about right?
Sounds fine
>2.  If the oil pressure is where it should be, is there any point in pulling 
>the oil pump and measuring the clearances?
Not unless the oil pump o rings are leaking,  If so replace with Viton
orings. 20-50 oil would be better too unless you drive in Saudia .

>3.  Voltage is at 12-12.25v up to 2000 RPM; didn't run it any higher.  Does 
>this sound about right?
If the meter is correct that would be low...but the voltmeter is notoriously
unreliable.  Check it with a multi-meter. You are looking
for a figure over  13.6 volts (say 13.6-14.1)  The battery is actually a
13.6 volt batery not a 12 volt (2.2 X 6)

>4.  Prior to starting, the fuel pump ran rapidly until the system came up to 
>pressure, and then slowed to about 1-2 pulses/sec.  Is this right or do I 
>have leak somewhere?  I didn't see any gas pouring out and I just replaced 
>both float needles.  On my Healey 3000, the electric pump pulses about once 
>every 5-10 seconds after it is up to pressure.
The Healey is right, the Stag Wrong.  The initial fast pulses are just the
carbs filling.  I would guess a leak on the vacuum side
(Fiber washers) as a first place to check.  After the car has pumped up,the
pump should not click when the engine is not running.
I suggest as another "Fire-up" duty that you remove the pickup from the
gastank and clean it as they tend to gunk up with rust etc.

Walter
Stag Specialist
520 792 0294