Re: Grinding noise above 2800 rpm

[Glenn Merrell <gmerrel@domain.elided>]

Hello Gerry,
	Welcome to the list.  Without hearing the grinding noise in person, I've got to
first ask some more questions:
-  Does the grinding noise occur with the engine in park/neutral and reving the
engine?
-  Does the grinding noise occour only when accelerating in gear
	-under hard acceleration?
	-all the time any acceleration?
-  Does the grinding noise occur more in relation to RPM or to car speed?

Answers here will isolate it to engine or driveline.

If engine, that is grinds in neutral or park, then there is something going on
in the engine area, but the torque converter spins in neutral and Park too.  But
it could be a pulley noise, or internal.

If you suspect the torque converter making the noise, they do come apart or
loosen up when abused, turbine blades do shift and bend/crack, and is a likely
cause.  A nationally recognized auto transmission shop will be able to easily
tell you if that is the problem, and may Diagnose it for free.  I had AAMCO do
my '70 Mercedes 250 transmission with a lifetime warranty when the first gear
band snapped, ran it for another 160,000 with no problems, except a gasket leak
that they fixed for free.  BW automatics are no different than most other auto
boxes in design and theory, use a specialist and get the lifetime guarantee if
that turns out to be the problem.  Have it diagnosed before you pull the
engine.  Then you can negotiate a lower cost if you carry in the tranny after
pulling engine/tranny.
	But I want to make sure it is not something a bit simpler like a bad drive
shaft u-joint, transmission final drive bearing, differential pinion bearing, or
a bad wheel bearing or axle u-joint.  Driveline noises can propagate throughout
the drive line and resonate a remote part, making you think the problem is in a
different location than the apparent sound.

As to inspect for crank bearing wear, it depends whether you enjoy crawling
around for hours under your car, in winter, on a cold floor or driveway.  The
engine does come out very easily if you have a shop hoist of some type and a
device to tilt the engine/tranny as it is coming out of the engine bay.  My
engine was out in 2 hours with a shop hoist on casters, one person, and a
tilting device mounted on the boom hook.  The problem with dropping the
crossmember and steering rack is that some of the bolts are in some tight spaces
where you are likely to bust a knuckle, and the inside onesare tough to locate
if things are covered with crud..  If you are considering engine work anyway,
the engine will be out if you pull it to check.  Just be prepared for more cost
when you open up the engine, it is one of those "well, while I've got it out and
apart, I may as well ...".

	Bushings and shocks are going to be a matter of personal preference.  I like
Koni's, but you need to unbolt them to make an adjustment, no problem on the
rear, but the struts are a bit of a pain.  That is why people recommend Spax, as
they are adjustable on the car, plus they are gas filled wjich keeps a downward
force on the suspension.  Poly bushes are harder and less forgiving than the
replacement rubber type and will stiffen your ride a bit, transmitting more road
noise.  Your choice and preference for the trade off of tighter handling and
more road feel from standard, which is not bad.

Good luck.

Regards,
Glenn  Merrell
Triumph Stag Register USA VP
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