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Re: [ihc] High Amp Alternator
Thanks for the responses. I must admit, I am a big fan of the K.I.S.S.
approach to things. I also, however, am a sucker for the Tim Allen, more
power, approach. Looks like I've got some thinking to do. Maybe, I will
let the junkyard decide. If I find one, I do it Greg's way. If I don't, I
do it Toms. Thanks again, guys.
George H.
72 Scout II
345 V8
On Wed, 14 Jul 2004 16:25:46 -0600 bearbvd@domain.elided (Greg Hermann)
writes:
> At 1:49 PM 7/14/04, Tom Mandera wrote:
> >George B Humphrey wrote:
> >
> >> What are the advantages and disadvantages of switching to a
> higher amp
> >> alternator? What, if anything, would I have to do to the Scout if
> a
> >> changed to a higher amp alternator? What are the advantages of a
> one wire
> >> alternator? I've got lots of electrical goodies running at
> certain times
> >> and am thinking about changing.
>
> The very best way to do this IF you have the room is with one of the
> big
> Leece Neville alternators. They make a LOT of juice at and right off
> of
> idle. A 135 amp rated L-N will make its rated 135 amps--or
> MORE--under
> vile, hot underhood conditions, and continue to do so for a LONG
> time.
>
> This is quite a contrast to the high current 'rated' Delcos--with
> which,
> once they get good and hot, the output DROPS to about 60 or 70% of
> their
> 'rating' !!!
>
> There are lots of the L-N units out there, mounted on IH SV
> engines--in
> dead school buses---so, don't be claiming bracketry problems as an
> excuse.
> The L-N's are completely rebuildable--if you have one with a good
> stator
> and field, you can renew EVERYTHING else for about $130 --diodes,
> triode,
> brushes, bearings, brushes, regulator (which is ADJUSTABLE !!!!),
> etc.
>
> Why make GM-Delco richer when you can get an industrial grade (and
> rated)
> unit ?? (BTW-- a #4 charging wire is about as LIGHT as I would want
> to go
> with a 135a L-N !!)
>
> I have NOT _ yet_ tried to mount an L-N on an SV that uses the
> combo
> alternator/freon compressor bracket--
>
> Greg
> >
> >More juice! Specifically, at anything above idle. Sometimes a
> high-amp
> >unit will have LESS output at idle than a "stocker" 37 or 63amp.
> If you
> >do a lot of idling, this could be a downside.
> >
> >When I put the 392 into my Travelette, I put in an electric fan
> that
> >draws ~40amps when running. The 37amp (or 63 or whatever.. I
> didn't
> >really worry about it before) alt was going to be a little weak for
> that.
> >
> >I put in a Delco 12si 94amp alternator. Direct bolt in upgrade for
> our
> >10si 37/63amp stock units.
> >
> >I did a Ford starter solenoid conversion at the same time. I then
> >bought another battery cable and ran it from the output of the 12si
> >alternator straight to the Ford solenoid's battery side. Charging
> >current no longer goes through the ammeter, though the ammeter is
> still
> >connect and the rest of the wiring is untouched.
> >
> >I installed a voltmeter to keep tabs on the electrical system.
> >
> >At idle, it keeps up, until the fan kicks on, then it drops a volt
> or
> >two.. tap the gas, and the needle swings back up to normal.
> >
> >Little chance of the 4-gauge battery cable from the alt output to
> the
> >solenoid melting down from too much current, too.
> >
> >-Tom Mandera, Helena MT
> >http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout
> >Leaving for RMIHR in the AM.. but first there's a stripped wheel
> stud on
> >the Scout to fix.. GRRRR..
>
>
>
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