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Re: [ihc] header gaskets



One thing that works is to coat both sides of the gasket with Fe-Pro
Copper high-temperature silicone sealer before assembling the gaskets and
the headers to the motor.  Take the header, hammer it straight if it is
not, hold it against a belt sander to smooth the surface, then coat the
surface of the gasket with sealer, and bolt everything in place, making
sure you tighten evenly.  I used to think it was a crock, but the sealer
does not burn or harden.  It fills in all cracks, seals, and stays
pliable even after heating.  It will seal any cracks you may have,
barring any major gaps, which should be gone anyway after straightening
and sanding.
Also, I am going to be working with a fellow locally who will make
stainless steel/asbestos (or whatever the current asbestos substitute is)
gaskets to fit IHC V8 & I4, and the BG inline engines.  He has been
working on reusable aramid valve cover gaskets for me, and is supposed to
have those in his shop anytime now.  If anyone is interested in the SS
gaskets, or the valve cover gaskets, let me know.
-Colin Rush

- --- Seay Capt Matthew R <seaymr@domain.elided> wrote:
> Tom R.
> 
>         Saw your posts about the copper header gasket.  How
> is it working
> for you?  I too have problems with the header gasket
> from Stan's getting
> brittle and breaking.   Thinking back to my statics
> class in college and
> thought that the problem is bigger than the gasket,
> it makes sense that
> since the bolts are centerlined on the exhaust, when
> torqued down they put
> much more force on the center than on the top or
> bottom of the exhaust
> ports.  (which is where I see evidence of exhaust
> gasses excaping the
> gasket)
> 
>         Solution?  Who thinks that I can cut a peice of
> angle iron that
> would transfer some of the torqe to the top and
> bottom of the exhaust ports.
> Or is there another method out there that makes a
> better seal on Stan's
> headers.  I would be interested to hear what others
> have done.  Thanks.
> 
> 
> Matt Seay
 
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