[ihc] Joel's tranny mess

["Jim Grammer" <jgrammer@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Joel -

Absent a ruptured pressure line to the cooler(which would only really puke
with the engine running), the shifter seals are about the only source for
the volume of fluid you describe(but you knew that already).

My $.02 is that if it's at all possible for you to get to a Chrysler or Jeep
dealer today, it is *well* worth your while to get the 'real deal' Mopar pan
gasket. Their plastic over steel core service replacement gasket is slick,
requires no sealant, and is reusable. With your time pinch not having to
watch the glue dry is a huge benny. When you get back and go to install the
Trans-Go No Yo-Yo kit(to stop the converter drain back)you won't need
another gasket.

Donnelly was raving about the Mopar gasket, so when I last did a tranny
service on the Jeep ZJ I used the 42RE equivalent. Slick. Someone spent some
time and $$ figuring out a gasket that would let the dealership techs 'bolt
and fill'.

See ya soon. I will confess that the prospect of not having to prep a truck
for the trip is a relief. OTOH, if anything *does* break on the Excursion I
have no doubt we'll be SOL and $$$$ :(

Jim

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 08:26:16 -0700
From: Joel M Brodsky <jmbrodsky@domain.elided>
Subject: [ihc] 727 Fluid leak !!URGENT!!

Binders,
      I'm getting my truck ready for a week long road trip that culminates
in the Tulare event.  My plan was to take my 76 Traveler on the trip and
pull my Dunbar Military trailer.  Well, this morning, my plans may have
changed.  HUGE amounts of trans fluid leaking from the area directly around
the band adjustment/cooling lines/shifter levers.  It's all very clean
there now, with fresh fluid all over.  Risk of flash fire is great with the
truck now, so I'd like to cure this and if I have confidence, then I'll
take it on the trip.

Any ideas where this thing could be leaking?  The cooling lines are tight,
checked them in the parking lot this AM.  I'm thinking the shifter shaft
seals, ilke I really want to have to do THAT job.  Drain, drop valve body,
remove linkages, replace seals, reassemble.  Looks like about 3 hours,
right?

Thanks,

JoelB