Re: Trailer brakes, etc, was: Re: [ihc] making a 1/2T a 3/4T

[bearbvd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Greg Hermann)]

At 9:29 AM 3/24/04, Joel M Brodsky wrote:
>My 'lift' was to put 3/4T springs in the truck from a '73 3/4T pickup.  I'm
>putting 2.5" blocks in the back, and longer shackles in the front for the
>next 'stage'.  The truck still rides like a living room sofa (very comfy)
>so the 'lift' should clear 33s perfectly and then I should be done, until
>this 3/4T axle thing.  I'm thinking if I take it easy on the running gear,
>when towing, that the 1/2T hardware ought to last for a while, but I'd like
>to have a plan just in case, y'know?
>
>I've towed a whole bunch with the Traveler in the past year, and I've flat
>towed with the Travelall, but I've never towed the trailer with the
>Travelall because it doesn't have trailer brakes...yet.
>
>Which brings me to my next question.  My Traveler has a Kelsey Hayes brake
>control mounted under the steering column.  The unit is plumbed in with the
>hydraulic brake circuit.  This works great when I step on the brakes, the
>controller (adjustable) applies trailer brakes and the truck stops straight
>and manageable.  Now, the question is, when I work the brake controller
>manually (without applying the brake pedal) does it also apply rear brakes
>in the truck as well as activating the electric trailer brakes?

NO.

 The tail
>lights come on when I manually operate the brake control so I'm not really
>sure how it works.

That should be 'brake' lights, NOT 'tail' lights.

  The thing looks to be quite sturdy, but also possibly
>antiquated as it is made out of metal and the controllers I've seen for at
>least the past 15 years or so, have all been plastic.  Any ideas?

The unit you have is pretty much indestructible, and, IMO FAR superior to
anything you can buy new !!

  I think
>I posted some time back that I was looking for documentation for this type
>of brake controller, but without a model number that made it quite
>difficult.  The unit has hydraulic in and out, a red LED on the right
>front, a round knob with the K-H logo on it and the knob turns in and out
>for adjustment, and several wires exiting the back to points unknown.

Generally there are only three wires to one of these. Hot (power in), Brake
(to the brakes) , and brake lights (switched power to the brake lights).
This last should wire in to the brake light circuit just downstream of the
stock brake light switch--thus turning on the brake lights if you actuate
the trailer brakes by hand.

The hydrauic out is likely just a bleed fitting.

The LED comes on whenever then unit sees hydraulic pressure or is actuated
manually.

The knob adjusts how MUCH trailer brake you get in proportion to the
hydraulic pressure applied. Generally--you want MORE as you load a trailer
heavier.

WHY is one of these old style unts so SUPERIOR to the newer, inertial style
ones ?? Because being on a downgrade (or upgrade) doesn't mess with how
hard (or whether) the trailer brakes are applied !!!!!!

Greg
>
>Thanks in advance for your help, and for listening,
>
>JoelB
>
>
>
>
>Chevy front ends should bolt in.  Several people have done it.  No need
>to swap springs around, unless you want to.. and you're one of the guys
>that already did all of that research on finding a "lift" for your '75.
>
>-Tom