[ihc] Squealing Glessie

[J Grammer <jim@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 11:26:19 -0700
> From: "Bill Fowler" <bill_fowler@domain.elided>
> Subject: squealing pig
>
> Hey guys,
>
> Well after two weeks of daily driving (a lot of around town stuff) Glessie
> (69 Travelall) has started to make a high pitched squeal when the clutch is
> depressed (Lots of dirty looks at the stoplights LOL). It actually has two
> pitches one kind of lower when about 3/4 depressed and then higher pitch
> when fully depressed.  What am I hearing?  Is this a sign of imminent clutch
> failure or do I just need to do some lubrication?  Any guidance on how to
> proceed would be much appreciated.
>
> Bill Fowler
> 1969 Travelall 1100 4x4 "Glessie"
Bill, I really want to say that the truck has a greasable throwout 
bearing(my guess also for what's making the noise). I *know* that it has a 
diaphragm clutch, which means I had the inspection cover off. I also 
distinctly remember thinking that the clutch plate looked nice and meaty, 
and suspected a fairly recent replacement. That said, it's been awhile and 
I've worked on just a few too many other trucks in the meantime to be 
certain. Pull the sheet metal cover off the bottom of the bellhousing, and 
the throwout bearing and collar will be staring at you. There should be a 
zerk fitting hanging straight down from the collar. If so, give it a few 
pumps with a grease gun and see if that quiets it down. Don't go crazy with 
the grease, you don't want it flinging out onto the clutch disk. If there's 
no fitting, try spinning the front face of the bearing unit, you should be 
able to feel roughness if the bearing's gone south. You could also watch 
and listen under the truck while a helper starts it up and depresses the 
clutch(just make sure it's not in gear!)

If lube doesn't help or isn't possible, and we're pretty sure the noise is 
coming from the throwout bearing, we have good news/bad news. The good news 
is that a clutch job is really straightforward on that truck. Pull the 
driveshaft and shift lever, put a jackstand under the rear of the oil 
pan(with a wood block), disconnect the clutch linkage at the bellhousing 
cross shaft, and unbolt the bellhousing. The tranny and bellhousing weigh 
maybe 175#, so a floor jack is in order, and a tranny jack adapter is 
handy. The bad news is that you probably want to replace everything all at 
once, which means ditching/refurb'ing a clutch disk and cover that there's 
probably nothing wrong with along with replacing the throwout and pilot(in 
the flywheel) bearings. Most folks just don't want to take the chance of 
having to re-do the labor again, and replace all the parts and have the 
flywheel surfaced at the same time. Another thing, drain the engine oil 
before removing the flywheel, the flywheel bolt holes go straight through 
the crank flange and into the crankcase. For the same reason, the bolts 
need sealant(P-tex #2 or equivalent) on them upon reassembly.

If you need the clutch job and don't want to do it yourself, it's time to 
visit the mechanic I wasn't able to find for you. You know, the one that 
won't bend you over and will do the job right. For parts, I would prefer to 
have a local clutch shop re-condition what's in there(and face the 
flywheel). A good clutch place can also sell you the pilot/throwout 
bearings and *install* them. Kinda like one stop clutch shopping, with the 
added benefit that you don't risk getting the wrong throwout bearing(not 
uncommon) or get a clutch cover that's not properly set up for the clutch 
disk(also not unheard of). If that same clutch shop would also do the R&R 
for a reasonable price, that'd be the 'bee's knees'.

Hope this helps, if you need to bounce parts/labor pricing off us please do 
so. I haven't done a ton of clutch work(I'm mostly an auto guy), but I know 
others here have. Allan E gets his disk and cover refurb's done for about a 
Benjamin IIRC, not sure how that compares  in the market but sounds like a 
pretty good deal.

Jim