Re: Alignment question

["Steven Stegmann" <steve.stegmann@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

John,

I don't remember very many cars where the steering wheel is "keyed" somehow
so it stays in the same position.  Makes alignments a pita.

I've got to get into this with my old Aerostar.  1990, 206,000 mi and rusty.
Pulls to the right and has a wheel imbalance.  I think I may have a bent
wheel.

Remember this is St. Louis.  Right iin the middle of the rust belt.  But you
don't even know what rust is.  If you come through St. Louis this summer
I'll show you a rusty Scout.  I doubt you ever seen one.

Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hofstetter" <hofs@domain.elided>
To: "Steven Stegmann" <steve.stegmann@domain.elided>; "David Bongo"
<dbongo@domain.elided>; "IHC Digest" <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2003 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: Alignment question


> on 7/30/03 8:35 PM, Steven Stegmann at steve.stegmann@domain.elided wrote:
>
> > Yes, that will work.  By turning the rod instead of the ends you are
> > adjusting "total toe".  If you take each side loose and adjust singly
then
> > you can adjust each side independently.  Usually what mechs do is to
adjust
> > the "total toe" and then just pull off the steering wheel and reinstall
it
> > so it is centered.
> >
> >
> > Steve
>
> After putting a lift kit on my Scout and adjusting the toe-in, my steering
> wheel was off center. I pulled it, but in order to put it on "straight", I
> had to grind a notch in the horn plate a little longer. Worked fine, works
> fine. Not a very big deal. Felt a lot better.
>
> Reminds me that someone on the digest said that to start pulling their
> steering wheel, they tried to unscrew the phony hex head screws on the
horn
> button. Don't do that.
>
> John Hofstetter