Redneck Trussing & another design

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

A variation on Rik's suggestion..

Use two boards, one on the outboard side of the diff, and one
approximately the same location on the other side.  Or, perhaps put both
right near the middle.  Set 'em so the triangles of the truss and diff
will "clear" the boards.  Rest these on something (I have an old SII
frame on logs...).  

Then, just inboard of the axle ends (where the truss gets welded first),
use a cable or strap around the axle and attach that to the previously
mentioned buckets of sand to tension it.

Weld the two ends of the truss on, then get a couple of the more
centered "bridges/webbing" welded on, and you could release the tension,
turn the axle over, and finish-weld.

Another thought:

Start this way with 2" or 2.5" wide strap... we'll go with 3/8" to cut
the middle of 1/4" and 1/2".

Put a couple of the "webbing/bridge/stand-offs" in place.. probably use
1x1x1/4 or so square tube.

Get just enough on to hold things decently so I could flip it over for
the easier welding (only AC on the buzz box).

Then use some 1/8" strap/plate steel.  Weld it along the "truss strap"
and then weld it to the axle tube.  Use two pieces.. one for the "front"
and one for the "rear" of the truss-strap.  Leave the center portion by
the diff "clear".  Repeat on both sides, and if the strap hangs too far
down (below axle) stop and trim it into a triangle first.

Naturally, no big long seam welds or I'll warp stuff.. but it shouldn't
need a full seam anyhow.. just a couple inches here and there spaced
out.

Then you have the strap going into tension before the housing will bend,
PLUS all of that 1/8" strap/plate being used for the same purposes and
to reinforce the 3/8" strap.

BUT, once again, I run the danger of making things worse by adding too
much weight to a nose-heavy rig... ;-)

-Tom Mandera, Helena MT
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout