RE: Think & Straight Steer & Liners

["Farmer" <pharmer@domain.elided>]

Tony Urban wrote:
> I wouldn't be so sure about marketing hype.... there's no linux
> PR department.
Don't get me wrong - I've got my fingers crossed for linex to succeed! I'll
send you another note offline.

> What causes a drop-pitman to reduce the turning radius?  Changing to the
> hi-mount knuckle involves more than my skills allow for.  Any of you
> fabricators interested in developing a kit for the machining-impaired?

The only manufacturers of it made it short so that it wouldn't hit the front
spring shackle.

I was just talking to some folks who said that it could possibly be heated
up and bent.  Any thoughts on that?

I'm assuming that simply installing a sleave with a longer ball joint might
be a bad idea because the joints would be hard to find, and the extra
leverage might break it - with potentially legal consequences.

From what I can tell, the knuckle alternative consists primarily of finding
all the parts.  Assuming you go with a IH knuckle.  But maybe I missed
something...

Does a steering stabilizer reduce bump steer?  The only thing I need to
address at this point is a little bump steer.  I think that it's my steering
box.  It was a little worn before, but now that everything else is tight, it
seems to be wearing out more quickly now.  At least that's the theory du
jour.

> I'm going to try and have the POR done as soon as the new steel
> is in.  Do you
> think it's necessary to paint the underside?  Or should a few coats of POR
> primer be sufficient?

I'd put at least some kind of tough paint down there.  I've had to remove
POR - and it was difficult with a grinder.  Of course, if the application or
preparation aren't done right, it'll probably flake right off.  But POR on
its own should be fine.

- get entire interior lightly bead blasted - to remove as much paint & rust
as possible.
- clean entire interior with POR product "Metal Ready"
- ensure the car & por are at least 60 degrees
- paint one light coat of POR-15 silver over entire interior
- wait about 3 hours (it's dry out here) then add a second coat
- wait about 1 day
- ensure the car & por are at least 60 degrees
- paint one light coat of POR primer
- wait 12-24 hours, then add one more light coat of POR primer

This should provide for solid chemical bounds between the POR and the steel,
and between the POR primer and POR.  If you wait too long between coats then
you have to rely on sanding and a weaker mechanical bond.  The POR is
extremely tough, but the primer can be chipped & scraped.  The primer really
isn't necessary - but will help a liner product.

Unlike way back when (say 12 months ago), most of the liner manufacturers
have tested their products out with por.  And, they prefer to use their own
primer.  I probably need to do some more calling, and maybe some testing -
I'd like a chemical bond from steel to liner ideally.

>
> I have a carpet/vinyl mix in my interior.  The carpet is ok, but the dogs
> slide around on the vinyl.  I guess I'll just have to pick a
> brand of liner to
> go with.  There's quite a bunch out there and they all promise the same
> things.  I think Durabak was available in just about any color
> for something
> like $119/gallon, if memory serves.
I've got a similar problem, two grimy kids.  I've got a bunch of notes for
durabak, line-x, lava liner, etc that I'll send your way if you are
interested.  Right now, I'm headed toward speedliner.  The cost for a pro
job is a little more money, but you get thermal & sound insulation as well
as all the other standard protections available via the diy.  Also, you can
hit $250 pretty quick with some of them - like Durabak.


Ken Farmer
1980 Scout II
1975 Travelall
1974 Travelall