Neill's Alternator

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

     Neill,
     
        Sounds like the bulkhead connector that lets power come FRM the alt 
     back into the cab and then back out to the harnes (Headlights, etc.) 
     has a bad line.  Try removing the connector, cleaning them thoroughly 
     with wd40 and a stiff toothbrush and reassemble.
     
        It sounds like an electrical 'open' not a short.  When the alt 
     'sees' an open Ie. no voltage, it tries to charge harder to bring up 
     to 12v.  a short would make the needle peg to the + rail then fry.
     
        From my recollection, the 1980 has a single connector on the left 
     side behind (Or thereabouts) the vacuum brake booster?
     
        Also, make sure that the wires at the fuse block and headlight 
     switch are in good shape.  There are a few other connectors on the 
     steering column that are also prone to failure.  Mine melted because 
     the previous owner wired the driving lights directly to the ignition.  
     a 4A line supplying 15A+!  I've got zip ties holding it together now.
     
        Good luck,
     

    -Joel Brodsky
      www.physics.arizona.edu/~jbrodsky

   '76 IHC Scout II Spirit 345/tf727 RE8000, Cibie40s, custom 
        rear tire rack, 6 different color body panels.
        Not much sport, all utility.  270K mi
   '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727 'Tranny eater' Hummer brush guard,
        3/4T rear springs, Hella Rallye 2000s, Con-Ferr 5x7,
        Class IV hitches front and rear, 3" Exhaust, 138K mi.
        1st Place, Rocky Mountain IH Rendezvous,
        3rd Place, Tulare IH Western Regionals.
   '74 IHC Travelall 150 2wd 392/tf727 "The 'new' one" 101K mi
        Factory AM/FM, Cruise, Tilt, AC, Captains Chairs,
        Rblt: Alt, carb, fuel pump, ps pump, water pump, dash,
        seats, rear door, starter, master cyl, what could be left?

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Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:41:33 -0700
From: "Neill G. Mills" <nmills@domain.elided>
Subject: Possible Electrical Short

     Hi Guys:

     New here, forgive me if I ramble.  I have 80 Scout II, (the last new
Scout bought in Tucson) 196ci, 193000mi, daily driver.
     For about 3 years now I have a jumpy amp gage, I think it is a 
short because the head lights flicker slightly.  The gage starts to jump
at 1700rpm, it does not increase with a rpm increase.  It will increase
if you put a load on it, like fans, wipers, and lights.  I can not pick
it up with a hand held volt/amp gage.
     I have replace every thing I could think of, that doesn't cost a 
paycheck, like alternator, ignition parts, starter, coil, even the
amp gage.  The auto shops haven't a clue.
     It does not seem to affect performance, ( I still get 0-60 in 35 
seconds ) it is just irritating, and some day it will bite me.

     I hope your suggestions don't cost to much.

     Thanks;
     Neill
     

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