RE: Oil Leak

["Stegmann, Steve" <Steve.Stegmann@domain.elided>]

Guys,

Thanks for all the ideas.  It's not the valve covers, they're no longer
holding perfect but they're not running down the sides of the block yet
either.  I've checked these.  I drove it to work yesterday and today and so
far the front cover plate on the flywheel is still clean.  The oil sender
was leaking quite a bit, maybe I got off easy for once and that is the
source of the leakage.

When I went out to get in Scout this morning, there was **no** oil on the
ground under it.  Well except for the power steering fluid.  Grrrr!  I'm
going to have to get on that fitting one of these days.

Maybe Scout is just taking pity on me.  My daughter came home from
Fayettville Ark for a visit yesterday and her '92 Tracer (38mpg @75mph
highway sheeeee!) is leaking antifreeze in the driveway.  Say a prayer it is
only a hose clamp somewhere.  Looking at Scout is like having everything
laid out on a grid in the driveway by comparison.

Steve

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	EldonMcf@domain.elided [SMTP:EldonMcf@domain.elided]
> Sent:	Monday, March 15, 1999 5:00 PM
> To:	Stegmann, Steve; ihc@domain.elided
> Cc:	jstricke@domain.elided; jlandry@domain.elided; n9ads@domain.elided
> Subject:	Re: Oil Leak
> 
> In a message dated 3/15/99 10:27:05 AM Central Standard Time,
> Steve.Stegmann@domain.elided writes:
> 
> > Guys,
> >  
> >  I'm searching for an oil leak.  I stopped the leaking pressure sender
> with
> a
> >  new one, same pressure readings, no leaks.
> >  
> >  Next lets turn to the rear of the engine.  Take off the front flywheel
> >  cover, and the throwout bearing inspection plate.  there's oil dripping
> from
> >  the cast block to which the clutch pedal fork attaches.  I imagine this
> is
> >  coming from the transmission, it looks like the 50w I just put in
> there.   
> >  
> >  I should say here that the entire inside of the clutch housing from the
> >  engine to the transmission is wet with oil, always has been.
> >  
> >  There's oil leaking from the back of the engine.  I'm leaning toward
> the
> oil
> >  pan gasket, every other gasket seems to leak except the head gaskets.
> I
> >  inspected the rear main as well as I could, can't really get to it,
> pretty
> >  tight fit.  I worked a piece of clean paper toweling between the
> flywheel
> >  mounting hub and the rear main bearing and it came out clean & dry.
> (The
> >  front main is also dry) The flywheel has had some oil, or liquid on it
> at
> >  one time or another, it isn't perfectly clean, but then it seems "way"
> too
> >  dry to account for all the leakage back there. It looks the same as it
> did
> >  when I last looked in here a year ago.
> >  
> >   I've noticed that if the oil pan gasket leaks back there, it will drip
> down
> >  inside the front flywheel cover plate, and then the wind from the
> clutch
> and
> >  flywheel can easily whip it arount in there.  BTW the starter gears,
> and
> the
> >  clutch side of the flywheel are dusty dry.
> >  
> >  Any comments?  I'm way to lazy to replace the rear main unless I
> *really*
> >  need to.
> 
> 
> 
>    Steve, 
> 
>     Instead of  just taking a stab at all the possible things that could
> be
> leaking, you need to determine what is leaking, and repair it.  I does
> sound
> like you could have more than one thing leaking too.
> 
>    Here's how I would try to isolate the problem.   Go to your favorite
> parts
> store and get a couple of areosol cans of brake parts cleaner.  this
> cleaner
> is kind of a solvent in a can.  use the cleaner to clean the area between
> the
> flywheel, and the engine real good, also clean the area in the bellhousing
> good too, and you can probably clean the back of the heads & block from
> underneath also.  be sure to do this in a well ventilated area, and if you
> are
> working on the driveway put some cardboard, or newspapers down to keep the
> solvent / oil /grease from making a mess.
> 
>    Next check / clean the vent on the top cover of your transmission, if
> it is
> plugged it will cause oil to be forced past the seals when as the
> transmission
> heats up, and the oil expands.  Also check / replace the pcv valve, and
> hose
> to the manifold.  If the pcv is plugged, or stuck it can also cause engine
> oil
> to be forced past gaskets, and seals.  You also might try to tighten the
> pan
> bolts.
> 
>    Next go for a road test.  when you get back carefully inspect the area
> between the flywheel & block, and look for signs of fresh oil.  Any fresh
> oil
> would indicate a leak from the pan gasket, rear main bearing cap seals, or
> the
> rear seal itself.  you should be able to see where the fresh oil is coming
> from.   If ther is fresh oil on the clutch pressure plate, it would have
> to be
> coming from the transmission.  If you examine the oil closely, you should
> be
> able to tell were it came from, the transmission oil should be pretty
> clean,
> while the engine oil tends to get discolored some.
> 
>      By using the process of elimination you should be able to determine
> exactly what you need to repair to take care of your oil leak(s)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >  
> >  How much clearance do I need between the axle and the front part of the
> oil
> >  pan to get the oil pan out without disconnecting the axle?  I have a 2"
> >  skyjacker which works out to 4" of lift in the front and 3" in the back
> >  based upon Eldons ride height information.
> >  
> >  Thanks,
> >  
> >  Steve
> 
> 
>    good luck
> 
> 
>    Eldon McFarling
>    Ceresco, NE