Re: SPOA

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

Kevin Curry wrote:
> 
> What all is involved in doing a SPOA. I learned last weekend that I
> don't have near enough lift (sagged suspension and 2" body lift) to
> handle 33's.

There's a FAQ on the BinderBulletin.  It'll start ya off.

Where are you rubbing?  Front or rear?

Rear spring over is a piece of cake.  Front is another issue... 

I'm going to 4" springs up front, and a spring over in the rear.  I'll
still rub 33s in the back.  A body lift would fix it.. or some fairly
serious body re-working of the rear of the wheel well (also in mind).

http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/faq/ has some pics of how I've trimmed
my wheel wells thus far in an effort to help the 33s clear.

So where do they rub?  maybe a spring over isn't necessary...

OTOH.. bigger is better, right? ;-)

For the front.. grind the top of the housing at the appropriate angle
for the CV joint (are you running an auto?).  Then grind the knuckles
and twist 'em for caster.  Then weld a perch on the passenger side of
the tube.  Bolt it in.

Custom CV front driveshaft.  Measure everything (articulation) and
order.  Same with the shocks.

Then decide - Z shaped drag link, or the "tower" approach on the
passenger knuckle?  Swap to IH pickup knuckles and get a Chevy "lift
block" for the steering arm.  Bring it up over the top of the springs,
and build a custom steering arm and use a stock (or HD equivalent) drag
link.  Or just use the Z. ;-)

Longer brake lines all around.

-Tom
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout