Re: 1210 2WD to 4WD conversion

["Allan & Kathryn Weidenheimer" <allanw@domain.elided>]

Michael:
Well, I'll give you what info I have, and my opinion on swapping the
4x4 running gear from your 68 Travelall to a 773 Travelette.  However,
I don't have a pre-'69 truck to measure, so you will have to do that part.
As far as I know, the '69-73 frames/axles are the same.  I thought I
read something about spring perch widths changing in 74/75, perhaps
Joel or someone with a 74 or 75 can verify that for us.  My '72 axles
measure 31-1/2" for the front, and 40" for the rear--center to center
of the center bolt on the springs that locates the axle.  The backing
plates measure 58-1/4" for the front, and 52" for the rear.  Note that
the rear measurement is a D60 full floater, I'm sure if your Travelall 
is a 1/2 ton, the measurement would be different.  The rear
on a 4x4 has a lift block (about 2-1/2") to boost the height in the rear
to match the straight front 4x4 axle, but the axle is the same, so 
you should leave the full floating rear axle under the pickup, but
keep in mind that the front and rear ratios must match within 0.01.
If your travelall has a full floating rear axle, you could use that
and the ratios would be matched.  The rear springs are the same.
On the front, the 4x4 got shorter springs, and you can see the 
mounting spot for the rear shackle is there on the frame, but 2x4
models have the shackle mount 4" further back.  I have
not changed this on mine, but as a result, my front pinion is
tilted down too much and I get vibration if I drive very fast in 4x4.
I would suggest that you check your Travelall and see if it has the
shorter springs.  You could leave the 2x4 springs on the pickup like 
I did, and possibly use an alignment wedge.  Some folks say the
wedge will give you problems though.  I plan to use one once I
bolt some 1-ton 2x4 spings I have under mine.  The shock mounts
are different, I had to drill the rivets holding the 4x4 mounts to the
frame and then bolted them to my frame (holes were already there).

The drag link is different between the I-beam and D44 front
axles.  I do not know if the one on your Travelall will fit, as I
don't know if the same steering box is used.

The transfer case is a simple bolt-in, the holes are already in the 
frame.  I had to lower the gas tanks a little to get room to push
the bolts in.  I assume the '68 transfer case mounting was the 
same.  I don't know what trannys your rigs have, but you
may or may not have the right bracket to mount the transfer case
shifter.  Not a big deal, but may require finding the right one, or 
some fab work.  The divorced transfer case avoids all those 
issues with finding the right adaptor and bull gears, etc.

I'm not sure if the drivelines changed length between the pre/post
'69 body style change.  If they didn't, then the front driveline and
the intermediate (assuming you have the same tranny) would
work.  I think the transfer case mounts in the same position 
between a Travelall and a Pickup, in terms of the distance from 
the front.  Obviously, the rear driveline from a Travelall is shorter than
what goes in a 164WB longbed travelette!  So the rear will cost
you some $$ at the driveline shop.  In fact, from looking at my 
parts manual, it appears the 156WB and 164WB 4x4's even have
a center bearing back behind the transfer case.  You may be 
able to just have the rear driveline of the Travelette shortened to
have it join the back of the transfer case instead of the transmission.
On my 131WB, the 2x4 had a center bearing, and the 4x4 did not.
I left the crossmember for my center bearing in, and modified it a 
little to clear the rear driveline.

Is it a simple bolt-in?  Pretty much, as long as you have the right parts
to bolt-in.  Since your swap is across bodystyles, I would suggest that 
you ask the owner of the pickup if you can take some measurements 
before you commit, letting them know what you have in mind.  My
situation was easier, as I had a chassis from an identical truck to mine,
except it was 4x4.  Lastly, be prepared to spend plenty of time on your
back removing and installing axles and transfer case if you attempt
such a swap. Even as a bolt-in, it is a lot of dirty work, especially if
either truck has the special IHC rustproofing option (oil leaks).
A garage is highly recommended.  Good Luck.

Allan Weidenheimer
72 1210 Pickup