Re: Rear Bumper

["Steven Stegmann" <s_stegmann@domain.elided>]

>Why 4x6 and not something smaller?  I have some 2x6x3/16wall that I'm
>using for my front bumper, and I thought I might use something similar
>in the rear.. just seems like you're adding weight... OTOH, you're 
using
>the 4x4 spacers to get the bumper back anyhow..
>
Tom,

It looks a bit heavy, but, the body is so soft (fg body is worse) that 
if anyone hits it I seriously want them to stop at the bumper.  That's 
why when I do the body it will get nerf bars, real ones.


>
>> 3- Cut a hole straight through from front to back for a class III
>> Oh yeah put the hitch in the middle of the bumper.  The bottom of the
>> reciever lays on the bottom of the 4x6 tube.  The hole is right near 
the
>> bottom of the 4x6 tube.
>
>This seems the strongest way of doing it, but I'm concerned about the
>Scout's already poor departure angle.. mounting the hitch tube at the
>lowest point in the bumper will make the hitch poke out a little bit,
>leaving it the limiting factor in departure angle.. 
>
>How about mounting the hitch a little higher up?
>

You could mount the hitch higher, but you'd probably have to modify the 
trailer to deal with the elevated hitch.

>Also.. how far does the hitch have to stick out to allow you to get the
>hitch pin in?  I was thinking it might need to be out a bit.. and then

About 4 inches.  The clevis pin for the drawbar almost touches the 4x6  
tube.  There's just enough room to get the cotter pin on it.

>> 5- Cut two 12 in lengths of 1/2" diameter cold rolled and bend into U
>> shapes.  Weld these to the bottom of the 4x6 and the reciever tube.
>> Weld anywhere they touch anything.  These are for the safety chains.
>
>Why on the bottom?  Would it be OK to mount the safety chain 
attachments

I'm realistically going to do a lot more towing than off-roading.  So I 
leaned the design that way.  You would probably go more for clearance 
than I wanted to.


>Where did you position the 4x4 spacers then?  If you were doing it
>again, would you just position the 4x4 spacers with the bottom of the
>frame to keep 'em flush?  Or maybe use 5x4 tube?
>
The 4x4 spacer tubes go right where the U shaped spacers are on the 
original bumper.  My original was not a step bumper.



>What about those "stars" I see on some factory screws (like the hardtop
>ones) to keep 'em from spinning?  Could you simply use something like
>that on the bolts fed through from the gas tank area?
>
>or optionally weld the head of the bolt to a piece of strap.. so that
>when you tighten it, the strap would get wedged against the "C" channel
>on the rear of the frame and thus keep it from turning.. but not 
require
>dropping the tank and welding the bolts in?
>
That would work fine.  But my tank was already out.

>Does the angle run all the way to the rear face of the 4x6 tube? 
>Sacrificing departure angle again.. did you then grind the corners of
>the angle down at an angle to regain some of the departure angle you've
>lost?
>
The angle comes within 1 inch of the rear face.  I did grind the bottom 
back at a 45 deg angle to give some clearance and since this little bit 
didn't add anything to strength.

>Is your bumper wide enough to stand on safely? 
Yes.  Just a bit slick.  I may put some tread plate on the outer edges 
for steps.  Or maybe some of that abrasive that sticks to stairs.

>Those 4x4 "spacers" sound like a nice spot to store some stuff.  I
>wonder how to go about putting a hinged door or something on it...
>
Weld the hinges on.

>Maybe a couple of lights need to be mounted in the area around those 
4x4

Yeah, serious back-up lights.

I aligned the tops of the spacer tubes and the top of the 4x6 tube with 
the top of the frame.  That gives about 1/8 inch clearance for the 
tailgate.  Have to keep the snow & ice off if you want to drop the 
tailgate.

Steve

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