Re: Rear Bumper

["Bill Thebert" <bthebert@domain.elided>]

This morning Ken Farmer quoted Bill Mounteer:

>Next I cut a 2.5" square hole to insert a short length of 2.5" square
>tube to mount the hitch bar. When doing this, test the fit of the
>2" square hitch bar with the 2.5" square tubing you plan to use.
>It's easier to file any interior lumps etc before you weld it in
>place. Also drill a 1/2" hole for the hitch pin. I reinforced the
>2.5" tube by welding a ring made from 3" square tube at the outer
>end.

And Tom Mandera added:

> . . .  do like Bill M. suggested and "ring" the end of the hitch..

Two small points I'd like to make:

1)  2.5" square tubing (0.25" wall) generally has a *seam* running the full
length of the stock -- right down the middle of one side.  This seam
prevents the smooth entry/exit of a standard 2x2 ball adapter -- unless you
grind or file this seam smooth (on the INSIDE of the square tubing) for its
full length.  Naturally this is a PITA.

2) the standard diameter of a hitch-pin hole in a 2x2 Class 3 receiver is
5/8", not 1/2"

For just a very FEW dollars, one can buy a pre-made "receiver tube" -- that
a) is made out of SEAMLESS tubing, b) is "pre-ringed" or "double walled" at
the opening/insertion end, and c) is pre-drilled for a 5/8" hitch pin
dead-nuts on center.

These receiver tubes are available from JCW and just about any good trailer
or RV shop in a wide variety of lengths, starting at about 6"

Even if you only value your own time at minimum wage, I think you'd be ahead
to purchase this sub-assembly, and integrate it into whatever bumper you
design.

Regards,

Bill Thebert