Re: dowels and bolts

[cookiedan@domain.elided (Daniel Nees)]

John,
   I don't have any in the rear yet. On the front I did what you did,
except I used course threads on the back bolt and a fine thread 6" bolt
through the bumper. What I discovered from reading Smith was that all
loads should be on a bolt shoulder, not the threads. Therefore I have to
get a 6" long bolt with a 5 1/2" sholder and 1/2" threads, and a 2-3"
bolt with a 1 1/2" shoulder and 1/2" of threads. This will put the shear
load on the shoulder where it belongs. Also, I need to add a few washers
under the back bolt hole to level out the tow hooks because of the
bumper in the front. With out the level hook I induced a stress on the
frame rather on the shear portion of the bolt and bent the frame a
little. I'm also think about using a dowel pin through a piece of metal
the thickness of the bumper metal and having the dowel pin go into the
old bolt hole and into the back bolt hole of the hook with a bolt
through the metal spacer behind the hook. This is sort of the way the
factory hooks were set up.

Dan Nees
cookiedan@domain.elided
The
"Good" 1979 Scout II  345/auto 
The
"Bad" 1971 Scout II 304/T-18 
And the
"Ugly" 1979 Scout II 345/auto 

http://members.tripod.com/~IHCaholic/scoutindex.html