More brake problems.

[jbade@domain.elided]

>We have a local auto repair radio show hosted by the service manager from
>one of the big local dealerships who does seem to know his business. His
>theory on the rotor warping was that it was caused by the heat stress of
>heating up the rotor and pads by braking hard and then setting at a stop
>light with the pads clamped against the rotor.  His solution with his own
>car was to pull up to a light, but stop a bit short and let the car very
>slowly creep ahead so the contact spot keeps moving.  Alternatively with
>an automatic, shift to neutral and release the brakes (or use park if
>you're on a hill).  He seemed to feel it was prolonging the rotor life of
>his car.

>I'm not sure if I agree and it would seem that manuals should have fewer
>problems than automatics since you don't have to hold it at a stop with
>the brakes if this is true.

Howard,

Also is it really worth it to add the wear and tear on the Auto Trans vers
the rotor..
To me what is harder and more costly to repair.  Also figure our Scout's us
organic pads which don't really hold heat like the Semi-Metallic.  So I
really don't think this is a way to solve the problem.  Organic don't ware
out rotors nearly as fast as the metallic also they don't heat them up as
much.  Most people with the Brake problems I found has been in problems with
Bearings or the hub.  I've also see spun races and just problems with the
wheel nut coming loose.

Anyway just a few more things to thing about.

Jeff Bade
Chicago, IL
1980 Scout ][, 304, TF727, D300, 3" Body lift, 4" Spring lift,
33x12.5xr15 tires, 4 wheel disk, SS][ converted
http://members.xoom.com/ScoutII