Re: Installing Rotor to Hub?

[Doug Rasmussen <DougRasmussen@domain.elided>]

John L wrote:
> I have a hard time believe
pressing in studs is all that hold the rotor to the hub, but I guess this is
how they did it.  So do I just press out the studs, swap the rotors and press
the studs back in?  Can I get by with simply doing the swap and not bother
with having to turn the rotor again?  I'd like to avoid removing any more
metal from the rotor if I can help it... I think I'm at the minimum thickness
limit.

John H. and I talked about this situation on the telephone, and he recalls
installing *new* rotors and not having to turn them afterwards.  Is that a
common and accepted practice?

Any suggestions are appreciated.<

John,
  When I installed NEW rotors on NEW hubs I had only a few .001's
runout measured at the outer diameter of the rotor.

  When I had installed those same new rotors on used hubs I found
substantial runout.  The runout was in the hub face.  Rather than turn
my new rotors I replaced the hubs (approx $50, GUS).

  Since then, I've been suspicious about used Scout hubs.  In my
limited experience (2 different front diffs), I've found 3 hubs that were
badly warped.  From my comparisons it seems they used essentially
the same hub casting for the Dana 27/30 drum brakes on 800's as on
the much heavier Scout II's.   The only apparent difference 
is that the Scout II hubs are machined on the back side for the rotor
mating surface.  Because of this machining the Scout II hubs might
even be weaker than the drum brake versions.  IMO, the hubs are a
weak link so I'd suggest thoroughly checking for mounting face runout
on your used hubs.

Doug