Gaskets & fasteners, etc.

[Chris Boyer <boyer@domain.elided>]

Read a post on engine rebuilding, then a followup.  Original post is
preceeded by ">>" and first followup preceeded by ">".  Both posts,
interleaved with my comments appear below.  Also, having rebuilt several
engines, I wanted to comment.

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 23:55:41 -0500 (EST)
From: josad@domain.elided
Subject: 345-2-A-392, A Bloody Tale, Part Deaux

> Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:57:35 -0600
> From: "John Stricker" <jstricke@domain.elided>
> Subject: 345-2-A-392, A Bloody Tale, Part Deaux

having rebuilt several engines professionally, I wanted to comment on sone
of these hints.

> First hint is to prelube the engine, get a straight screwdriver bit, 3/8
> drive, put a long extension on it, and use your air ratchet to turn the
> pump.  Works like a champ.  Filled the filter with oil and pumped up 50 psi
> in less than a minute.  Don't use an impact wrench though as I think that
> would be too rough on the oil pump shaft.

ok, using a bit is a real good way to lose a bit in a hard to get to place.
 take steel rod down to your HS Machine shop, where you should be able to
get them to cut the end for free, then use an air drill.

Excellent idea...dropping a bit could be a bummer.

> Second, don't you just love the way the rubber valve cover gaskets slide
> around and then leak?  Don't let them slide.  I don't know why, but it never
> occurred to me before to use Permatex AVIATION Form-A-Gasket on the things.
> I've used this stuff for years (on aircraft and land vehicles) and it just
> never occurred to me before.  It gets as tacky as weather-strip adhesive but
> is more of a sealer than adhesive.  It is also impervious to gasoline,
> should that be a factor to you.

the problem here is that you will alter your compresion Ratio.  what I
would do is to wedge toothpicks between the cylinder wall and piston, so
the gasket couldn't slip while I was installing the head, then just let
them burn up during combustion.

VALVE COVER GASKETS....  PISTONS?  HUH?    Also, are the IH heads studded?

> Third, trash can those damn Phillips screws on the pulleys on both the
> damper and the water pump.  The damper ones can just be replaced with
> regular 5/16 bolts, the ones on the water pump use  12 point 5/16 for
> clearance.  Again, it's more common in aviation circles, but race cars use
> them too.  Really wow the guys and get the aviation ones that are drilled
> for safety wire and safety wire them.  Make sure to point this touch out to
> them at every opportunity.

don't ever drill a bolt!  you will cause major structial weakening\

HORSEHOCKEY!  I just spoke with ARP's technical advisors (800) 286-3045 who
confirmed NO DAMAGE OR WEAKENING OF ANY KIND by drilling bolt heads.  How
do you think they do it for aircraft?  FAA certainly REQUIRES it on many
applications....ever seen a plane prop secured to the shaft without it?
Pegasus Racing offers a NIFTY safety wire drilling jig with a 1/16" bit for
hex and allen head bolts.  Covers #10-5/8" sizes.

 
> Fourth, either buy your oil pump cover bolts drilled, or drill them yourself
> and then safety-wire them.  You can also use locktite.  I used both.  Can
> you tell I've been hanging around airplanes too much?

see above.

SEE ABOVE.

If you're really uneasy about drilling bolt heads, then use an anerobic
adhesive such as LocTite, forchrissake.  

Chris Boyer
A courtyard of wc vw's,
one race car and an 800B.

> I'll let  you know when the beast lives again.

cool.  good luck.

Joe
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