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Re: Dan's rub
On Sun, 29 Nov 1998, William Cunningham wrote:
> Dan, Are you still using the stock bump stops?
> I would hate to lift my Scout and have rubbing problems with a tire size
> I am hoping to rise above:-)
> I hope to hear from some of the "lifted" listers on this one.
My 31x10.50s never rubbed (that I was aware of) with my stock
suspension.. on either my '72 Scout II with HD springs, or my '77 XLC
Scout II. I put the 4" Softride lift on, and my 31s (the same set)
rubbed on the passenger rear. After I chopped the heck out of the wheel
well (and cut right into the bed, removed the weld that held the quarter
to the C-channel support under there, and introduced some quarter-panel
sag), I remembered the rub was due to the stock spring-spacer that I had
reinstalled. I removed it.
That didn't completely fix the problem though. If you look on my "Divide
Ride '98" web pages, you'll see me trying to drive over "sheep rock" and
I couldn't do it.. my driver's rear tire rubbed too hard.
I didn't have a problem up front though.. probably because I had the
stock front anti-sway bar installed, and with it installed, I have NO
travel on the front suspension.
Since adding the rear shackles and 33s, I still rub (duh). :-) It wasn't
until after I moved up to 33s that I started rubbing on the front. This
is a common rub on lifted / larger tire shod Scout IIs. My solution was
to take my 4" grinder and cut notches on the outer fender lip. There's a
point where the inner and outer fenders bolt together, and then as you go
forward, the inner fender stops. At this point, I cut a notch. I cut
another notch just above the corner bend.. one in the middle of the bend,
one on the other end of it, and one more towards the center of the front
end, behind the turn signal lens.
I then used pliers and/or a hammer to bend the outer fender lip from the
"L" shape it was into a "V". The edge of the "L" was catching the SIDE
of my brand new 33s, and putting slices in.. if I compressed the tires
and tried to turn. This minor trim job fixed the problem. Then, when my
spring mount ripped from the frame, I *really* fixed the problem on the
driver's side as the tire removed large chunks of my fender..
self-clearancing.
You're going to have rubs with lift springs you didn't have before, even
with the same tires.
To lift the Scout, you add more arch to the springs.. and potentially
more length over all. Thus, when it compresses, it elongates more than
before, which will change the position of the tire in the wheel well.
4" lift, 2" body lift. Trim what still rubs.
For now, 4" lift and I'm GOING to lower those rear bump stops for the
winter.. the body lift'll come in the spring I guess. I, like Dan, hate
losing up travel.. but I hate even more $135 per tire! So I'll deal with
it for the winter. Then.. MORE LIFT. :-)
And, IMO, even with Dan's "taller" Triangle lift.. if it's a good, soft
lift, it will compress every bit as far as the stock springs did.. which
means, flat out, if you go any bigger than 31s, you WILL rub. Either
hack the rear wheel wells seriously (not recommended.. you'll have
structural problems.. that is, if it isn't rusted out already, Dan) or
body lift... or sacrifice travel.
-Tom (who was just about to write his "33 inch tire install" web page)
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout
'72, '77, '77, '78 Scout IIs
- References:
- Dan's rub
- From: William Cunningham <slypigs@domain.elided>
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