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Re: Dan's rub



On Sun, 29 Nov 1998, William Cunningham wrote:

> Dan, Are you still using the stock bump stops?
> I would hate to lift my Scout and have rubbing problems with a tire size
> I am hoping to rise above:-)
> I hope to hear from some of the  "lifted" listers on this one.

My 31x10.50s never rubbed (that I was aware of) with my stock 
suspension.. on either my '72 Scout II with HD springs, or my '77 XLC 
Scout II.  I put the 4" Softride lift on, and my 31s (the same set) 
rubbed on the passenger rear.  After I chopped the heck out of the wheel 
well (and cut right into the bed, removed the weld that held the quarter 
to the C-channel support under there, and introduced some quarter-panel 
sag), I remembered the rub was due to the stock spring-spacer that I had 
reinstalled.  I removed it.

That didn't completely fix the problem though.  If you look on my "Divide 
Ride '98" web pages, you'll see me trying to drive over "sheep rock" and 
I couldn't do it.. my driver's rear tire rubbed too hard.

I didn't have a problem up front though.. probably because I had the 
stock front anti-sway bar installed, and with it installed, I have NO 
travel on the front suspension.

Since adding the rear shackles and 33s, I still rub (duh). :-)  It wasn't 
until after I moved up to 33s that I started rubbing on the front.  This 
is a common rub on lifted / larger tire shod Scout IIs.  My solution was 
to take my 4" grinder and cut notches on the outer fender lip.  There's a 
point where the inner and outer fenders bolt together, and then as you go 
forward, the inner fender stops.  At this point, I cut a notch.  I cut 
another notch just above the corner bend.. one in the middle of the bend, 
one on the other end of it, and one more towards the center of the front 
end, behind the turn signal lens.

I then used pliers and/or a hammer to bend the outer fender lip from the 
"L" shape it was into a "V".  The edge of the "L" was catching the SIDE 
of my brand new 33s, and putting slices in.. if I compressed the tires 
and tried to turn.  This minor trim job fixed the problem.  Then, when my 
spring mount ripped from the frame, I *really* fixed the problem on the 
driver's side as the tire removed large chunks of my fender.. 
self-clearancing.

You're going to have rubs with lift springs you didn't have before, even 
with the same tires.

To lift the Scout, you add more arch to the springs.. and potentially 
more length over all.  Thus, when it compresses, it elongates more than 
before, which will change the position of the tire in the wheel well.  

4" lift, 2" body lift.  Trim what still rubs.

For now, 4" lift and I'm GOING to lower those rear bump stops for the 
winter.. the body lift'll come in the spring I guess.  I, like Dan, hate 
losing up travel.. but I hate even more $135 per tire!  So I'll deal with 
it for the winter.  Then.. MORE LIFT. :-)

And, IMO, even with Dan's "taller" Triangle lift.. if it's a good, soft 
lift, it will compress every bit as far as the stock springs did.. which 
means, flat out, if you go any bigger than 31s, you WILL rub.  Either 
hack the rear wheel wells seriously (not recommended.. you'll have 
structural problems.. that is, if it isn't rusted out already, Dan) or 
body lift... or sacrifice travel.

-Tom (who was just about to write his "33 inch tire install" web page)
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout
'72, '77, '77, '78 Scout IIs



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