Re: Hot start problems, power windows

["Jason and Maria Colavecchia" <jasoncolavecchia@domain.elided>]

Awhile back, this post came up concerning hot starting....
----------
: From: Allan Weidenheimer <allanw@domain.elided>
: To: IHC Digest Post <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
: Subject: Hot start problems, power windows
: Date: Tuesday, May 19, 1998 10:37 PM
: 
: Here is some info for those of you with hot start problems.  Several
years
: back, my Dad had an RV with a Chevy van chassis.  Sometimes, it
: would not start when hot.  Tapping the starter with a hammer while he hit
: the key usually did the trick, but looked kinda tacky.  Then I read a
: letter someone wrote in to Popular Mechanics describing the same problem.
: The answer said to go to the Chevy dealer, order a new solenoid spring,
: Part number 1978281.  It is a different tension.  He NEVER had that
problem
: again once we installed it.  The spring cost less than $10.
: 
: Allan Weidenheimer
: 72 1210 Pickup
: 

.....So, Since I have been battling this problem on my scout for years, I
decided to give this a try.  I tripped down to the nearest Automotive
Electrical outlet, and picked up the spring.  Initially, it looked
identical to my old one (at least from memory) but once I took the solenoid
out, the new one was definitely LONGER and a bit beefier in its
compression. (I would say it was about an INCH bigger in total length). 
She fit right in...I also bought a new solenoid, since mine had cracked the
plastic end housing and was useless.  As another assurance to perfect
starting every time, I added a heavy duty relay to the starter circuit.  I
have been hearing all about this Ford "remote solenoid" deal, so I decided
to try it out, albeit NOT the ford setup.  Basically my premise is that
"part" of the hot start problem is in the OEM wiring harness fading a bit
as the system gets hot.  It must also have trouble sending enough juice to
the solenoid start post, as well.  My relay uses the OEM start wire to fire
a master solenoid, which then supplies direct 12 volts from the battery to
the start pole on the solenoid.  This allows the actual key start circuit
to "relax" a bit, since it doesn't need to supply full current to the
solenoid.  I used fairly heavy guage wires to and from the relay to the
solenoid and battery, so it should last quite a bit of time.
Even if the relay dies, it will be alot easier to "jump" since i mounted it
on the firewall with easy access...in the event of failure, I can simply
jump the terminals at the relay to start the scout, without having to reach
under through the wheelwell and "hopefully" connect the right spots..(came
close to welding the screwdriver to the frame/headers/ other wrong spots
enough times to know how much better it will now be heheh)

This setup has been operational for several months now with NO
PROBLEMS...chugs right up EVERY time....it also seems to have cut down on
reduced current to the ignition, as the engine fires almost instantly upon
hitting the key...

This has been the best thing I have done all year to that poor beast...I
will be doing the SAME job on my Travelall when the time comes...