Re: Batteries & Springs & hubs

[Jennifer & Ken Farmer <pharmer@domain.elided>]

First off, thanks for the battery info - I've got a working 2nd (when my
scout 
died last month I walked to a gas station, bought a battery, hooked it up,
and
drove away.  But the problem wasn't the battery - it was a bad connection
to 
the alternator).  Sooo, this seems like a good opportunitity to
one-and-for-all
fix the problem with me leaving my headlights on while at work!!!!  Hmmm,
if 
only I could switch batteries from my seat...

Hey, did anyone work out that hand-crank start mechanism?  If only there
was 
some way to take advantage of that energy potential in the air tank...

My lift seems to be working ok these days, but I'm going to replace all the
front 
anti-sway bar brackets to straighten stuff out, and hopefully gain a
smidgen of 
stability (mine are strangely twisted).

Hubs:  well, today I drove about 220 miles from Manitou to Mr. Theibert's
home 
town of Boulder and back to attend a vendor presentation. While in 2WH,
with 
unlocked hubs, I get this "clacking" noise from someplace below.  Can't
tell for 
sure, I was worried that it was the transfer case, but a mechanic I spoke
to 
who seemed knowledgeable said it was the front differentical/axle
interface. This
sound has been intermittant over the last 6 months or so, but now has
gotten really
bad.  It motly occurs while deaccelerating.  Driving with the hubs locked
is right
out - that little tinny rattle I used to get now sounds like I'm dragging a
400-lb 
chain.  From what the mechanic said (who was familiar with IH
lock-o-matics), 
when the hub goes, it can keep trying to engage the differential.

Sadly, one of my travelalls is in the shop this week - the ignition switch
broke, 
so although it can be started, there is usually no electrical to the brake
lights,
turn signal, radio, etc.  Sooo, if I'm going to get into work tomorrow (60
miles
away), I need to do something pronto.  Is there a way I can remove the
locking
hub part so that it won't keep up this engagement stuff?

Also, thanks Bill for the warn tip. But, at $440 for a pair, it sounds a
little
too expensive for me right now (I need those extra dollars for an axle
twist!).

Lastly, seems like I fixed my hot start problem: I wired up the ignition
wire and
battery->starter wire so that it was sitting about 4" up off the back of
the engine,
rather than on it.  Very cheap fix!

Ken Farmer