Re: 74 Travelall, NEED ASSISTANCE!

[jlandry@domain.elided (John A. Landry)]

As the putrid festering facial boil erupted, jmbrodsky@domain.elided
yelled:

>        There is no air cleaner, I need to get that.  Does the AFB and 
>     the Tquad and others' air cleaner interchange?  I'm hoping so, 
>     that way I can get any filter body to put on there.

Yes... the AFB / Weber / Edelbrock use just about any air cleaner with the
common 5-1/8" diameter opening.  As a matter of fact, after I installed my
Edelbrock, I purchased an IH air cleaner from Howard Pletcher, which by
looking up the part number, found it to be "correct" for a Scout II
equipped with a factory four barrel.  It fits perfectly.  So I would guess
an original four barrel air cleaner from just about any model IH Light Line
vehicle would fit. 

>        The disty appears to have been installed incorrectly.  
>     Apparently the owner when converting to points, must have turned 
>     the oil pump, etc, and now the number one wire, is in the no.4 
>     spot.  The cap and body of the disty are correct, just the wires 

Again... this doesn't really matter, except if you are moving things around
anyway (new plug wires), you might as well correct it.

>     seem off.  I need to get the carb fixed to make it idle, THEN 
>     check the timing on no.8.  I plan to change the disty shaft back, 
>     but only after I get the thing road worthy.  If it runs now, I 
>     don't want to harm that, until I have fewer problems to work 
>     with.  The big thing now, is the wiring.  I just want all the 
>     trinkets to work, and the back gate window is a biggie.

I hate trinkets that don't work... drives me nuts! <grin>
     
>        When converting to points, what exactly needs to be moved from 
>     the original electronic setup?  The gold box in still in there, 
>     but disconnected.  It has the 5 lugs, and the points now have a 
>     'spring' ballast resistor in the inner drivers' fender.  Any 
>     explanation will help.  There appear to be cut wires every where, 
>     I need the diagram to match the ends.  I've got the instruments 
>     out, and they appear to be in pretty good shape.  I just want to 
>     get them working before I trust the oil pressure, temp, and 
>     charging gauge.

Check the FAQ on the BB.  I'm 99% sure that I wrote an entry on how to
switch from electronic to points ignition.  It explains what connects to
where.  If you still have questions after reading it, e-mail me and I'll go
into more detail.  A breaker-point ignition setup is incredibly simple.

>        I'm planning to get a rebuild kit for the carb, and maybe I 
>     can get that done tonight, and move the electric fuel pump and 
>     have an idling beast before long.  It has to idle so that I can 
>     move it.  My folks get back Friday night, and the truck has to 
>     get hidden behind my shop before then!

Keep in mind that if the auto parts droid says he doesn't have /can't get
the carb kit... the same kit for the Edelbrock or Weber are acceptable
replacements.  If I'm not mistaken, Owen Minor of Tacoma prefers to use
Carter kits to rebuild the Edelbrocks because they are either cheaper or
have better float needles and seats (valves) in the kits.  With Edelbrock,
you can pay extra for "off-road" needles and seats which are spring loaded
to reduce bouncing.  I seem to recall Owen saying that the Carter or Weber
rebuild kits included these so called "off-road" needles and seats as
standard.

Good luck,

John
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
jlandry AT halcyon DOT com       |   I want to know the TRUTH about our
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Commercial Helicopter - Inst.    |
http://www.halcyon.com/jlandry/  | 1976 Scout II Traveler "Patriot" model