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Re: [Fwd: Passed emissions]



As the putrid festering facial boil erupted, Tom Harais
<tjhemh@domain.elided> yelled:

>Strange aside: one the first and third tests, they listed my exhaust as
>"Single".   On the second test, they accurately had it as "Dual."  Does
>anyone know the procedure well enough to know if this matters?  I assume on
>dual exhaust, they just average the two tailpipes, or just test one.  I
>didn't watch close enough during these tests to see if they used 1 or 2
>sniffers.  I don't think this would have an affect, would it?

When you swapped the .532 jet for a .500, you obviously leaned out the air
/ fuel mixture which lowered the CO emissions.  Because of the crossover
design of the dual-plane intake manifold, the test should result in almost
the same results in either tailpipe.  Going from memory, I seem to recall
that a richer jet in a Holley 2210C goes on the side of the carb the choke
control is on... but I'd have to look that up again... I could have it
backwards.  But I think that sounded like too much difference between the
.532 and .500 jets.  One or both probably weren't stock.

>Something occurred to me as I brainstormed for ways to bring my CO down.
>Would oxygenated gas help?  That's the whole purpose of MBTE, isn't it?  To

Yes!  In a *carbureted* engine, oxygenated gas burns leaner and will
definitely reduce CO emissions.

>reduce carbon monoxide emissions?  If it does help, then people in Utah
>County who have their registration renewal in the winter have an advantage,
>because Utah County uses oxygenated gas from November through February.
>And in CA, don't you have oxygenated gas all the time?  Maybe I should have
>roadtripped out to Cali to get some "emissions gas" for my test.

Just add 10% ethyl alcohol to your tank before the test.  Actually, many of
those so called "gas drying" products (to help eliminate water from your
fuel system) such as "Heat" brand are nothing but ethyl alcohol blends.
You could add a couple of bottles of those before the test and it might
help.  But go too lean, and your NO increases rapidly (as you saw in your
third test).

>Also, does octane have any effect?  I guess I don't really know what octane
>means.  Any chem folks want to enlighten me on these issues?

No... octane doesn't matter in a test like this.  The octane rating is a
measurement of the fuel's ability to resist pre-ignition, a.k.a. "engine
knocking."  With a motor fuel, you want it to ignite only when you actually
try to ignite it... not before.  Running higher than required octane fuel
(higher than needed to resist pinging in your particular engine) is a
complete waste of money.  In some cases (rare these days), lower octane
fuels may not have the same top quality fuel system cleaning and fuel
stabilizing additives.  But any good quality name brand fuel is going to be
more than adequate in that regard.  Here in WA state near sea level, I
primarily use 87 octane BP gasoline... unless I'm going to pull a trailer
and I need the extra knock resistance because of high engine loads, then I
buy 92 octane premium.

>rob hughes -- passed!

Congratulations,

John
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