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Re:Brake bleeding
>I cut a piece of 1/2
>inch CRS(cold rolled steel) to 3" by 5", drilled and tapped in the center for
>a 1/4NPT thread, screwed in a coupling for an airhose, After this was done
>cut a gasket to fit the block and cut a hole for the fitting, then set
>this on
>top of the master cylinder, secured it with a C-clamp and put about 40 lbs of
>air on it. (GM recommended 30 to 50 lbs) Then proceeded to bleed my brakes. I
>check the fluid level between each wheel cylinder. So far it's worked on
>everything I've tried it on except my Saturn, it has a plastic resovoir!
>(harumph) If you feel that your brake lines need to be "cleaned", Denatured
>alcohol works very well ....It get's rid of any water and any that remains
>will evaporate in a short while.
Tim,
Well thought out and well explained. My trouble with your device and
others mentioned so far is that when I'm under that car and having just
bled a brake, I hate like hell to crawl out and go add some fluid, and
consequently I push it one more time, running the master cyl out of
fluid, and causing myself to have to start all over again. We need that
air pressire to be pushing fluid into the master cylinder from a
reservoir. Shouldn't be hard, although the last time I looked at cheap
pressure bleeders they weren't very expensive.
John
John Hofstetter "Ol'Saline's Web Site" www.goldrush.com/~hofs
Life Member, National Rifle Association California Rifle and Pistol
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Member, Sierra Macintosh Users Group Member, MacTwain Macintosh Users
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Owner of 79 Scout Terra "It's a legend"
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