Rhino flamability, shifters, and fan clutches.

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

     I'm going to have to try this at home tonight.  I've got a bunch of
the scraps that they trimmed when they did my Chev.  As I recall the last time I
tried it, it didn't burn.  I'll let you know.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 15:53:33 -0500
From: KMITCHELL <KMITCHELL@domain.elided>
Subject: Rhino-Lining Interior

I'll have to get the post from home but a recent discussion on the
Suzuki 4x4 list warned about the dangers of using Rhino Liner on the
interior of a vehicle.  The information was from the father of a
subscriber, who is a chemist.

He said that Rhino Liner should not be used inside a vehicle as it is
highly flammable.  To test this they took a sample from Rhino Liner,
placed it vertically and held a match to it.  From the sound of it, it
lit up pretty quickly and quite thoroughly.  The chemist said this was
because it was made from polyurethane and the fact that it is a foam
based spray, so it has plenty of air pockets to aid any fire.

I'll try to remember forward the original posts.  I would think twice
though of using Rhino in the interior of a vehicle.

Later...
Keith Mitchell

------------------------------

Tim, 

     The interlock that you pull to shift has a roll pin through it, I believe a
#8 nail will push it out with the point ground flat, then again if you have any 
firearm pin punches it'd make it easier.  The black plastic knob unscrews 
regular thread.  About the gears I dunno.

     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 13:05:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Tim and Roma Davidson <isp495@domain.elided>
Subject: 727 INSTALL

Okay all you 727 pros. I had mine rebuilt and I put it back in this
weekend. Everything is back in place and connected again. Fluid is in.
I have a small problem still. I don't have any forward gears. Is there
some adjustment I need to make? Also, I got myself another shifter
boot. Can anyone tell me how to get the knob's off so I can slide my
boot on?

Tim Davidson
<ISP495@domain.elided>
------------------------------



------------------------------
Thermostatically controlled fans lock up when hot.  They 'sense' 
the heat via the air over the sprial bimetal coil on the radiator 
side of the clutch, and via the heat of the mounting flange by 
conduction.  When cold, they spin free, when warm the lock up via 
an internal sprial that I will not try to describe now.

An electric fan ONLY works when the engine is hot not the ambient 
air, thus an argument for the sense in the clutch fan being from 
the conduction of heat to the coil from the engine.

I realize I made an error with respect to the mounting, the 
Clutch fins will also be closer to the radiator, and it depends 
on the fan blade configuration. 

OK, thermostat:  when cold, stops water flow to allow engine to 
achieve operating temperature.  When hot, allows water flow to 
pass to radiator to cool off engine and remain at operating 
temperature.

Now, fan clutch.  when cold, spins free to allow engine to warm 
up to operating temperature.  When hot, allows air to flow 
through radiator to cool off engine and remain at operating 
temperature.

Basically all it is,  is a redundant system.  If it 'senses' hot 
air, then the clutch will engage with the purpose that since the 
oustside air is hot, the engine will get hotter faster and need 
more cooling.  If it 'senses' heat from the engine/flange then 
the clutch will engage with the purpose that the engine is 
ALREADY hot and needs cooling.

     I've never heard of anything about mileage in relation to a 
fan clutch.  One problem with most 'hot rod' guys out there, is 
that they put on a rigid fan thinking that since they drive 'so 
hard' their engines will be hotter,and need more cooling, when in 
fact, they are cooling so much at all speeds and temps, that 
their engines often run too cold to get max HP.

     I'm going to dig up some lit. on this.  Mileage, hmmm.  
Really I think the biggest easiest improvement I ever made was a 
new air filter, and baby foot the starts.

     About the change in rpms thing.  You cannot know the extent 
of the fatigue in the water pump impeller shaft without 
destroying the pump either by test or disassembly.  Thus you can 
never know how much torsion it will accept before yielding.  It 
usually performs in the steel's linear elastic region, but this 
changes with temperature.  Hot metal is more pliable.  Even if 
only 100 or 200 degrees (steel is 'red hot' at about 1300F).  
Anyway the sum up is:  I WATCHED a guy rev the engine to do some 
carb tuning (only about 1500 rpm above idle) and the pump 
impeller shaft boke clean off at the mounting and sent the fan 
with clutch into the hood with incredible velocity!  I was a few 
feet back, but it was a sight.

     -I really had no intention of flaming anyone, just that 3% 
and the associated mileage gain from the other seems too small to 
worry about.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.