Re: Subject: Low Profile Mirror Mounting HELP

[jlandry@domain.elided (John A. Landry)]

On Tue, 23 Dec 1997 08:00:51 -0800, Rob Marks <RobMar@domain.elided> wrote:

>John, you might try mounting your mirrors with a
>rubber-encapsulated-brass-nut.  As you can tell, I have forgotten what
>they are called but can be found at most good hardware stores.  When
>tightened, they expand to grip the back of the hole.  I think I have
>similar mirrors on my 76 traveler and I used these to mount them years
>ago.  Didn't rattle, or fall off ever.  Folded them up inadvertently on
>the trail many times.  They required a 1/2" hole but were still covered
>up by brackets.  Drilled holes,  painted truck, then installed inserts
>and mirrors..  No rust around holes to date.  Make sure vent wing can
>open and you can see the full mirror and you should be set.

Thanks Rob.

I wound up using something NAPA calls "jack nuts."  I found these hanging
in packages of four on a local NAPA's store wall.  These sound similar to
what you described.  The jack nuts required a 7/16" hole in which the nut
is pushed in.  By threading in a 1/4-20 machine screw, the back of the nut
is pulled forward causing the slotted sides to expand out and collapse
against the inner wall of the sheet metal.  The flange which stays outside
the hole is coated with a grayish rubber compound so that when the nut is
tightened it forms a seal to keep out water.  To be extra safe, using a
q-tip I put a small amount of silicone sealer under the flange and inside
the edges of the hole before the nut was tightened.  When I finally get
around to doing all of the body work and painting on my Traveler, I plan on
painting right over these flanges.  The mirrors are mounted and very
secure.

Happy holidays,

John
------------------------------------------------------------------------
jlandry@domain.elided             |
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Commercial Helicopter - Inst.   | 1976 Scout Traveler, V345A, 727, 3.54
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