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RE: Overfiring?



Well, how about a fuel supply problem. Have you replaced the fuel filter on the BOTTOM of the fuel pump. It might have the integral fuel filter. If you do, just unclip or unscrew the holding strap and look in that little bowl that's on the bottom of the fuel pump. If you have that style, the can is about 2.5" dia by 3" tall. Inside will be FRAM filter #G-3. Have you used a seperate gas can as a fuel tank to eliminate the possibility of a clogged fuel tank or fuel line?
Replace you coil? They're just common coils and should be no more than $12 at a parts house. Considering that they mount right on the engine, they don't lead an easy life.
Replaced your condenser? $2 max.
Did you get GP, BlueStreak,Philco, BorgWarner or original IH points? Some no-name brands are pretty flakey and could have cheezy springs.
Look in your distributor. Clean the contacts on the woven wire ground strap.
Check continuity and resistance on your ballast resistor? I don't know the spec. Anyone?
Could anyone you don't get along with have dropped a ping-pong ball in your gastank? Doing that will give these symptoms...(GRIN..I'd NEVER do that to someone...muahahaha!)

Honestly, check for fuel obstructions first.Especially since it's new to you and you don't know how often filters were changed and if the fuel tank was kept fairly full to avoid condensation in the tank. 

Owen Minor
Tacoma,WA
Fuck OutBack Parts with a BIG rusty Dana 44 axle from a Scout II  (there John L. That's how I really feel ;^> )

0==========================
   >From:    	J MICHAEL SHAW II <103253.3336@domain.elided>
   >To:        	ihc digest <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
   >Subject:    	Overfiring?
   >Date:    	Tue, Nov 25, 1997  3:04 PM
   >
   >I'm a long time IH owner that is a short time web user.  Perhaps you guys
   >are the answer to my prayers.  I have a '73 Scout II, 345, 2210 carb, AT. 
   >This one I bought about six months ago ugly as sin, but running fine-except
   >for the 40-60 accelerator pumps it took to get the thing to start in the
   >morning.  After about three months I began to have a problem with it
   >misfiring as I was going down the highway.  The very first time it
   >happened, I pulled over and looked, thought it might be spark plug wire
   >cross-fire, and rearrenged a few wires and went back down the road.  I
   >drove about twenty minutes and it did it again, and has done so ever since.
   > It is fine for ten or twenty minutes, then starts coughing and bucking. 
   >If I pull over it stops, but will start again within about five minutes of
   >starting up.  It sounds like an extra, mis-timed combustion is taking place
   >on the passenger side of the engine (just a feel and sound impression),
   >making the Scout lurch, then decline before catching it's rpm rhythm again.
   > Once it starts doing this I can accelerate over it or decelerate under it,
   >but this leaves me with the option of going 40 or 75, or alternating
   >between the two in highway traffic.  It gets worse if I'm forced to push it
   >much farther, until I have to pull it over and sit.  It never dies out, and
   >doesn't do it at idle, but will eventually start doing it in even the
   >extreme rpm instances that I mentioned as a way to avoid it.  I first
   >thought "distributor," but a friend that helps me with mechanical work and
   >who's opinion I trust over my own said "carbeurator."  Because of the
   >pumping problem, I thought a new carb was in line, and got a rebuild.  The
   >problem did not change. I've tuned it up and set the timing and still no
   >change.  There seems to be no play in the distributor shaft, and my
   >experience with dist. problems always left me cutting out, not
   >over-igniting.  I'm now guessing it must be something in the valves
   >sticking once the engine is warm.  However, there's only 111,000 miles on
   >it, and my T-all and Father's Scout had many more miles without ever having
   >any problems.  I'm usually pretty good diagnostically figuring things out
   >with the peripheral additions to the engine, but have never gone into the
   >meat of the engine itself.  Any advice?  Valves, or should I try a new
   >distributor first?  Thanks in advance for any help.
   >Also, looking for a running engine for my '68 T-all while I restore the
   >original.  It has a 345, 4-speed set up, though I think anything from those
   >years would work. I'd prefer a 345, though would consider a 392-I just hate
   >to cut the little manifold notches in the frame that I think it needs. 
   >Anyway, this truck is in Taos, NM and I need to get an engine to it so I
   >can get it up here (San Francisco) and finish it off.  Any suggestions/info
   >will be greatly appreciated!!!
   >
   >J. Michael Shaw, II
   >103253.3336@domain.elided
   >'73 Scout II-Beater
   >'68 Travelall-"Old Blue"
   >'66 Dodge Monaco-Can't get rid of 'til I get the Scout running right!!! 
   >
   >
   >




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