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re: E36 (and E46) bushings and negative camber



JKEROUAC@domain.elided wrote:
> re: E36 (and E46) front end bushings and negative 
> camber
>      No need to worry about minor camber changes between 
> various styles of E36/46 front control arm bushings.
> Here's why:
>      The best front end modification that almost nobldy 
> does but everybody ought to, that factory stock legal bolt 
> for the axle carrier. 

Ahem,
A yet another dubious advise from our budding hero.
The reason "nobldy" uses the crash camber correcting bolt is that it is a 
POS. 

The front strut on an E36 fastens to the hub/steering knuckle in three 
places with three bolts. Two at the bottom bolt the strut to the hub 
directly (perpendicular to the direction of travel). One on top passes 
through two tabs on the strut and mounting flange on the hub (parallel to 
the direction of travel). The holes are machined to fit snugly around the 
OEM bolt. The crash bolt in question has a smaller diameter and allows for 
a mm or so of play between the strut and hub. Thus you have an option to move the upper mounting point of the strut 
assembly around relative to the steering knuckle. This slop allows an 
adjustments in the range of around 1/2 of camber per side.
The problem is that the sloppy bolt fitment results in sloppy mount that 
sooner or later start moving under load. The bolt is still favored by the 
poor SCCA stock class autoXers who are prevented from using proper 
adjustable camber plates. Another better way to minutely adjust front 
camber is to use 1-2mm think washers and correspondingly longer bolts 
between the strut and the hub at the bottom mounting points.
All of the above adjustments have to be performed on an properly 
calibrated alignment rack. Here in DFW, race shops charge $300-350 to 
fiddle with crach bolts and spacer to get the last few tens of negative 
camber out of the above contraptions. A KMAC adjustable camber plates can 
be had for under $300. 
Draw your own conclusions.

> Its in the parts listings described as "bolt". Simple enough. 

Sure. There's only one of those things on the car. Finding it should be 
brain dead simple ;-)
Try PN# 07 11 99 00 58 7 and an optional new nut PN# 07-12-9-964-661

> BMW charges a buck each.  This is the bolt that mounts 
> horizontally connecting the axle carrier to the strut 
> tube, behind and rearward of the brake caliper.

There is nothing behind the brake caliper but empty space.
The strut is bolted smack to the middle of the front steering 
knuckle/wheel assembly. 

>      So $2.00 gets you an increase of 2 degrees, one 
> degree per side, of negative camber.

Not exactly.

>      With the increased negative camber, try setting the 
> toe to .03 inward for street usage, zero to .06 out for 
> competitive use.  This is less than the awful factory 
> alignment spec that BMW's lawyers make the factory specify.

That would be .03 or 0.06 of inches? degrees? pounds? dollars? ;-)
There is nothing wrong with BMW's factory alignment specs for street use. 
Track and autoX alignment settings are obviously different. 
Both vary according to track/course layout. 
Neither one is EVER symmetrical. ;-)

*sigh*
alex f

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