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Re: Odometer PCB problems, AC fan fix/ r-134 retrofit
- Subject: Re: Odometer PCB problems, AC fan fix/ r-134 retrofit
- From: Scott Wolf <sjwolves@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 19:23:57 -0500
Yes, but there is nothing like owning a BMW. A fantastic car. I even
enjoy the repairs, much self satisfaction.
Scott
>I too had odometer problems with my 88 735i, about 4 years ago.
>
>The trip odometer reset itself every time I shut the car off, and the
>displays were occasionally intermittent. It got to the point that the
>Odometer and trans displays were dim as well. No amount of contact cleaner,
>cleaning ground wires, resoldering , poking or prodding seemed to help. I
>know I had the gages out at least 4 times.. I finally sent the board off
>to:
>
>Programa
>561-338-8843
>3500 NW 2nd Av.
>#501
>Boca Raton FL 33431
>
>They rebuild ECMS and PCBs for German cars. I think they rebuild heater
>swords as well.
>
>It cost $500 and totally fixed all of the problems.
>
>
>And life was good.
>
>OT
>
>I just replaced the aux cooling fan in my 88 735i this week, and I removed
>the low speed resistor, so both the ac switch and the lower High temp
>radiator switch kick the aux fan on full blast..Seems to result in
>noticeably cooler A/C and engine temps particularly while sitting. I used a
>$90 Imperial 16" fan from a discount auto chain.It fits well. The fan I
>took out was the same unit, as I replaced the OEM unit about 5 years ago. I
>guess I'm up to $180, which is still less than 1/2 the bucks of the OEM
>I checked with the local A/C shop owner, and he thought that more airflow is
>always better.
>
>I wanted to see how much of the R-134 refrigerant leaked out over the
>winter, and I found the coolest tool at Wal-Mart.. It is a tire pressure
>style(pencil) gage , calibrated for testing the low pressure side of a home
>or auto a/c..turn the system on, read the pressure with the compressor
>running. I don't know if any leaked out, but the system was right in the
>middle of the green band on the gage, so I left well enough alone.
>Performance with the straight" evacuate system/pump in R-134" conversion
>seems to be holding up for the second cooling season. The system makes a
>few more burping noises occasionally than it did, but has been consistent,
>so I really don't think anything is grenading.
>
>R134 costs $4.50 per can, R-12 is more like $40 with the license. Old cars
>seem to need A/c attention every year.(except for the GMs..really)
>
>My entire lower valence grill is now held in with strategically placed black
>Zip ties, and structural polyurethane glue with stainless steel safety wire
>"rebar" embedded in it, and painted black....it is either the 234k miles in
>Maine or the five disassemblies ( two condenser core replacements, two fan
>replacements and the first fan resistor replacement ) of all that plastic
>that is hard on the equipment.
>
>
>Last week I replaced the front strut mount bearings and threw an old set of
>barely used OEM Jurid brake pads in the front, cleaned and greased the
>calipers. I think the OEM pads I took out have at least 50,000 miles on
>them, and they still weren't worn to the brake sensor trigger point!
>Rotors, OEM were a few thousandths over the min. thickness, and still
>straight with around 100k on them. Good stuff this BMW OEM gear!
>
>The month before I replaced the fan regulator sword and the steering shaft U
>joint..
>
>
>It is kind of a mixed blessing being able to fix your own sled..you never
>actually need a new car, but you sure get a lot of wrenching practice! I
>always ask myself the question " If someone gave it to me, would I fix it
>and drive it?" this is why my newest car is a 93 150k mile Suburban.
>
>I never know what to tell people when they ask if these cars are
>"dependable"
>
>They run for beaucoup miles but you gotta fix em like any other machine I
>guess.
>
>
>Keep cool!
>
>
>
>Dave Leonard
>--
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