Re: R12 A/C

[Henri Baccouche <henrib@xxxxxxxxx>]

This is the hydrocarbon based R12 replacement I have been waiting for........

It should be very good.......cooling, ~36-38F@80F ambient.
This is what I get after 5 or so minutes on the freeway with R12 in an 86 325.

Good Luck and  try to let the list know how it worked.

Henri


Scott Wolf wrote:

>     I found this web site with a new refrigerant called Duracool 12a. It
> sounds like a direct replacement for R-12 without the hassles of
>     134. I am going to give it a try.
>
> http://www.duracoolusa.com/
>
> Scott
>
> >George.Barrowcliff@domain.elided wrote:
> > > 88 325 is
> > >   Over the years the R12 has leaked out and I was told that the assembly
> > > where the sensor screws into has a thin wedge shaped solder extrusion
> > > coming out of the assembly.  Before charging again, this assembly should
> > > be replaced and strong consideration to changing from R12 should be
> >given.
> >
> >George,
> >Any time anything goes wrong with an R12 AC system, it is almost always
> >cheaper to convert to R134a due to the cost of refrigerant charge alone.
> >Most E30 conversion kits cost under $100.
> >Learn more here: http://www.koalamotorsport.com/tech/misc/ac.htm
> >
> > > Since this was quoted at $300 for a 14 year old car that I just finished
> > > spending $500 for water pump, timing belt, tensioner and Inspection II,
> > > I am wondering if there is another way other than getting hot.
> >
> >$300 for the retrofit is reasonable, assuming it includes the cost of
> >charging the system with R134a and parts to perform the retrofit.
> >$500 for a t-belt job + Inspection II (glorified oil changes) is a bit
> >steep.
> >I remember paying around $250 (parts and labor) for my first t-belt job
> >before I learned how to DIY. Changing engine, tranny and diff oils should
> >not cost $250, but that again I do not know what else was done under the I2
> >pretext.
> >
> >alex f
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