RE: 1991 325i City Driver

["Fadeev, Alex" <Alex.Fadeev@xxxxxxx>]

"William Moore" <molux@domain.elided> asks:
> 
> I have a '91 325i that I keep in NYC, but drive mostly on 
> trips outside the city (i.e., highway miles are the majority).
> The car has 51k miles and I don't really have any complaints
> about the ride, but a friend recently suggested that I replace
> the shocks and springs, since they are 51k/10 yrs old. 

William,
If you have no complains about the ride, why are you thinking of modifying
it?
I can think of two reasons: 
a). you have been autoXing for a while and now know that it is time to
upgrade springs/shocks/sway bars; 
b). something is broken;
Your springs will never require replacement under normal conditions.
Particularly at the rate you have been driving your car. The shocks will
eventually go. I would even predict that you would want to replace well them
before you hit 100K miles, but that's another 10 years in the life of your
car ;-) 
Barring the above scenarios, tell your friend that you will be glad to
upgrade anything he likes at HIS cost.
 
> What is the best approach to containing parts costs without
> offending an otherwise very good shop?  Come with the major
> parts, talk about it beforehand, get several quotes (hassle)?

Tell them that you can procure the parts for a given price. Allow them to
add 15-25% markup to make a small profit and suggest they match your prices.
Their dealer prices from local suppliers are typically lower then what you
will pay from the best mail order sources. If they aren't, they are not
doing their homework and you should not be paying for their laziness. 
The shop will either agree to take your parts, match your prices or explain
to you why they wont do either. 
Go through this discussion _before_ your start the job, so all parties have
a chance to agree to or back out of this arrangement.

> I am also considering changing all the coolant hoses, since I 
> am due for a flush and refill of the coolant soon.  Bentley
> says change any hoses that are soft and flexible (all of mine
> are), but that seems counterintuitive. There are no cracks 
> visible on any hose, there are no leaks at the connections to
> pump or radiator, etc.  What is the skinny on this? Any guesses
> on parts cost (BAV or other better source?) and labor time.

Swapping coolant hoses for a car of your age is a good idea. The same goes
for all other rubber components (fuel lines, bushings, mounts, etc). If I
remember correctly, it will cost you around $45 for the hoses and 30 minutes
of DIY work. I would also throw in a new $20 thermostat (80C) since you need
to remove the hoses to get to it when it goes south. 
For parts see Steve D at http://www.ultimategarage.com or
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/ or any other supplier at
http://www.bmwlinks.com

> The front valence panel (if I am identifying the part correctly,
> the panel which delineates the front of the car under the 
> bumper, has cut outs for fog lamps and air guides, see Bentley
> E30 manual, page 14-33, fig 6-17) is pretty dinged up and one
> fog lamp is busted, while the other is mounted in the distorted
> panel and can't be properly aimed.  My dream solution would be
> to find this whole thing (sheet metal, plastic inserts, fog 
> lamps, spoiler lip) at a junk dealer and install it myself, but
> I don't think that will work out.

You are right on this one. The front apron is spot welded to the body of the
car. The cost of bending the old one back into shape will be less then
buying, priming and painting a new one from BavAuto. The new aftermarket
apron is unlikely to fit perfectly anyway and will require some bending to
be installed. I had mine fixed after a little off road excursions for under
$350.
Your Bosch fog lights can only be obtained from a BMW dealer. Roundel
advertising mail order dealers will have one for around $60. Lenses are not
available separately. 
The plastic brake cooling ducts are all priced separately. Each part goes
for between $10-20. Putting those back is a simple DIY job.
 
> Finally, I am getting water in the front foot wells when it 
> rains (not at the car wash). Traditional advice is to clean
> the sunroof drains or the windshield gasket is shot. [...]
> I looked in the engine compartment on the firewall on the 
> right side, where there is a drain protected  by a rubber 
> elbow. Others here have said this is the ultimate exit for
> the sunroof drains, but my inquiry leads me to doubt this.

Have no fear, William, this is the one. 

have fun,
alex f

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