Inspection II Write up (Long)

["Manuel Paredes" <ddrk1@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Since so many of you asked me what I did and how hard it was I decided to 
post this to the digest.  My car is a 95 325i with limited slip, manual 
transmition, and sports package.  Here goes...

First of all I had to change the radiator and thermostat so I did all that 
good stuff first.  After that was done I warmed up the car per the manual to 
change the oil and manual gear oil.  I started with the engine oil and 
filter.  That is pretty basic.  I then moved to the air filter and fuel 
filter.  Air filter was very simple fuel filter is simple also but takes a 
little more work.  My fuel filter is located under the drivers side foot 
well.  I found it easier to do by jacking up the driver side of the car for 
more room.  You could probably do it without it but it would be VERY tight 
down there.  There is a black plastic cover with one nut and one bolt to 
remove. One is 7mm and the other is 10mm (I think)  Once you remove the 
cover, clamp the rubber hoses on each side of the filter to minimize fuel 
spillage and unscrew the hose clamps.  When replacing the filter make sure 
the arrow is pointing towards the front of the car.  I used an old oil pan 
to catch the fuel spilled but it was very little because I clamped the 
hoses.

Next was the final drive oil.  This is simple also.  Provided you have the 
right tools.  I purchased the 14mm allen socked that is need from Steve D.  
Without this bit I would say it is pretty dam hard to do.  I did not need to 
jack up the car for this but some of you bigger folks might need to.  (I'm 
only 5'7", 150 lbs.) It was a little tight but I managed.  I used the 
instructions on http://unofficialbmw.com to do the work for that and they 
were VERY helpful.  I also used the Red Line Synthetic oil instead of the 
BMW stuff.  The Red Line gives you cleaner and smoother shifts.  I dunno why 
but it does and I like it!  Must feel good with the short shift.  And don't 
forget to buy a pump to pump the oil in the diff.  You'll see what I mean 
when you read the procedure.

Next I did the spark plugs.  I used oem Boesh plugs.  First I removed the 
black cover that's on the block.  On my car there are two, it was the big 
one that says BMW on it.  I beleive I used a 10mm socket for that.  Be very 
careful when removing the screws, there are alot of crevices where those can 
fall and be very hard to get out from.  I was VERY careful.  When removing 
the cover you will see what they call coils I believe.  Those can be removed 
by removing the two nuts located diagonaly to each other.  (10mm I think)  
You will need a 6" and a 3" extension to remove each plug.  It says in the 
manual when you remove each plug to blow air into each cylinder to clean it 
out.  I don't have an air compressor so I opted to use my shopvac and suck 
out any dirt instead of blowing. <g>  Worked for me.  Make sure you use the 
correct torque for each plug when replacing with the new ones.  I don't 
remember what it is but it's in the manual.  I also used a dab of loctite, 
as the manual said.  This to me was the most time consuming part.  I took my 
time and changed them one by one so I wouldn't mix up the cables.

As far as changing the coolant that's pretty easy.  Remove the radiator 
plug. (Large phillips screw driver) Remove fill cap and stick water hose 
inside.  Turn on the car with the heater on at full blast, turn on the hose 
and flush out the system.  Turn car off when your done.  Don't let the car 
get too warm if not the next step will hurt.  Remove the engine block plug 
on the lower passengers side of the block, above the exhaust anifold.  (13mm 
open end wrench). **Be careful when you remove this plug and get out of the 
way or you will get a face full of coolant** Replace plugs and fill with 
coolant.  (1 gal. coolant, 1 gal. water)  Make sure the car is running with 
the heater on and at full heat.  This will help cuirculate the coolant 
through the engine so you can fill it with the water.  Don't forget to bleed 
the air out. (Phillips screw next to the fill tube)  There is a procedure 
someone sent me with more details and pictures but, but I don't remember the 
link.  It's the one for changing the water pump.  I got it off the 
http://www.bimmer.org site.  This should be done every three years from the 
production date.

I didn't have to change the brake fluid cause it was done last year so I 
don't have any info on that.  Brake fluid is every 2 years from production 
date.

I didn't have a chance to change the micro filter so that is not included 
either, but there is a good write up at http://www.unofficialbmw.com on how 
to change one.

Reset lights with reset tool or whatever you got.

Most of the torques specs are in the manual and the ones that aren't are in 
the procedures I mentioned.

The rest of the Inspection II things to check, and inspect can be found on a 
checklist called "BMW Inspection Form".  There is one at 
http://www.bmwmpower.com under the "Gallery" section.

All in all this was a fun job.  I spent a little over 100$ as opposed to 
500$-600$ for the inspection and learned alot about my car.  When I was done 
I drank a six pack of Coronas and thought about my Aztec goddess Stan. ;-)  
I do recommend a few things though:

1.  BUY A MANUAL! (Only 55$ at Circle Tire Co.) Contact MPotheau@domain.elided to 
purchase a manual.,
2.  Buy the 14mm allen socket to change the final drive oil.
3.  BUY A MANUAL!
4.  Take your time.  This is something that should not be rushed.
5.  BUY A MANUAL!
6.  Make sure you have ALL the necessary parts and tools before doing this 
inspection.
7.  BUY A MANUAL!
8.  Wear latex or plastic gloves. Unless you like eating motor and tranny 
oil with your food.
9.  BUY A MANUAL!
10. Ohh did I mention to BUY A MANUAL!!

All the usual disclaimers apply.  This write up is what worked for me and it 
might not for you so use this write up at your own risk.

Manuel Paredes
95 325i Sharked, X-ed, M3mflrd
L.A. BMWCCA

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