RE: starter replacement

["John Coffin" <coffin@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks!!!  These are great instructions.  I know what you mean about
removing the airbox, I remove it to replace the oil filter, just easier.
While the air meter is out I clean it with carb  cleaner.

Yes, the motor is original.  My brother-in-law bought it new in San
Francisco and then after 3 years bought a 325is.

Major parts replaced

- - 3 catalyst and mufflers (the joints crack, seems to be a common problem).
- - driveshaft at 205K (used $125).
- - one clutch at 159K.
- - 3 water pumps (I think one was cheap, only lasted 50K)
- - master brake and clutch cylinders, clutch slave, and rear brake cylinders
at 295K.
- - original radio died last month, new radio this weekend.
that's it...

- -John
cars I do maintance on
'84 318i
'87 325is (brother-in-law)
'84 745i 87K (parents)

previous cars
'85 535i


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Mulhouse [mailto:mulh0021@domain.elided]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 1999 12:41 PM
> To: coffin@domain.elided; bmw@domain.elided
> Subject: starter replacement
>
>
>
>
>    300K on a 318i!!  Thats great!  Is it the original motor??  As for
> the starter... your lucky you don't have a 325.  It is much easier to do
> on the 318i, but it still is a little tricky.  There are 3 bolts you
> need to get at.  2 that go though the starter and through the trans.
> The third bolt is near the electrical connections.  It is a short hex
> key bolt that goes through a metal plate and into the block.  Can't
> remember the size, but I think it is ~8mm.  To start, you'll want to
> disconnect the battery.  Next remove the airflow meter and rubber
> ducting.  You might be able to get by without doing this, but I don't
> think it is worth it.  The airflow meter and ducting are very easy to
> remove.  Next take out all the electrical connections on the starter.
> Note the location of the blk/yel wire.  There maybe two spade contacts
> on the starter for this plug.  If you put the wire back on the wrong
> spade term. the car won't start.  (Last time I did this job, I made this
> mistake.  I was almost ready to take the starter back out when I noticed
> the other terminal.)   Okay.  Next, you may want to attack the
> trans/starter bolts.  They are both 17mm (bolt and nut.)  It is pretty
> tight in there, but not nearly as tight as the 325.  The heater hoses
> will be in the way, but I have always been able to work around them.  It
> will be worse if you have had the cooling system recall.  The bottom
> starter bolt may be easier to get at from underneath, but I usually get
> at it from up top.  (Too lazy to jack up the car..)  Installation is the
> reverse of removal.  The only tricky part is getting the nut back on the
> upper starter bolt, and tightening it.  There is no room to get a wrench
> on it.  To get it started, I have used a magnetic pickup tool.
> Carefully position the nut in the right location with the magnet, and
> then get the threads started.  Once you do that, jam a screwdriver
> between it and the starter/motor so it won't turn.   Thanks about it.
> Good luck!
>

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