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starter replacement



   300K on a 318i!!  Thats great!  Is it the original motor??  As for
the starter... your lucky you don't have a 325.  It is much easier to do
on the 318i, but it still is a little tricky.  There are 3 bolts you
need to get at.  2 that go though the starter and through the trans. 
The third bolt is near the electrical connections.  It is a short hex
key bolt that goes through a metal plate and into the block.  Can't
remember the size, but I think it is ~8mm.  To start, you'll want to
disconnect the battery.  Next remove the airflow meter and rubber
ducting.  You might be able to get by without doing this, but I don't
think it is worth it.  The airflow meter and ducting are very easy to
remove.  Next take out all the electrical connections on the starter. 
Note the location of the blk/yel wire.  There maybe two spade contacts
on the starter for this plug.  If you put the wire back on the wrong
spade term. the car won't start.  (Last time I did this job, I made this
mistake.  I was almost ready to take the starter back out when I noticed
the other terminal.)   Okay.  Next, you may want to attack the
trans/starter bolts.  They are both 17mm (bolt and nut.)  It is pretty
tight in there, but not nearly as tight as the 325.  The heater hoses
will be in the way, but I have always been able to work around them.  It
will be worse if you have had the cooling system recall.  The bottom
starter bolt may be easier to get at from underneath, but I usually get
at it from up top.  (Too lazy to jack up the car..)  Installation is the
reverse of removal.  The only tricky part is getting the nut back on the
upper starter bolt, and tightening it.  There is no room to get a wrench
on it.  To get it started, I have used a magnetic pickup tool. 
Carefully position the nut in the right location with the magnet, and
then get the threads started.  Once you do that, jam a screwdriver
between it and the starter/motor so it won't turn.   Thanks about it.  
Good luck!

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