<E30>Suspension upgrade - my rear springs came out pretty easy...also hints on car alarm purchase

["Rod Birch" <HOTROD930@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Mark wrote:

>1.  The Bentley manual suggests loosening the exhaust and differential
>in order to get the rear trailing arms down far enough to remove the
>rear springs.  The Haynes manual suggests simply using a spring
>compressor to remove the rear springs.  This sounds much quicker.  Has
>anyone ever done it this way?  If so, how did it work out for you?

I changed the springs on my '86 325 last year, Eibach's and KYB's (wanted to
go cheaper than the Bilsteins, since I don't plan to keep this one forever),
and if memory serves, those factory rear springs came out pretty easy, just
unbolt the rear shocks from the trailing arm (correct term?) and maybe you
pull down a bit too, they still had a bit of tension, but it didn't seem
like anything resembling a "loaded" spring, just had to work the bottom out
of the perch.  If this doesn't appear correct as you're removing parts, by
all means, don't proceed if there appears to be the slightest hint of
danger, the energy in a compressed spring can maim or kill you.  If you have
the same springs, they advertise 1.3" of lowering, but it looks sort of
"slammed" afterwards.  At first I thought it looked too low, (especially
with my stock ugly little 14" wheels), but now I'm rather used to it, and it
visually makes the wheel openings in perfect relation to the wheels/tires.
'Sure beats that stock 4x4 look, but man, sometimes I miss that incredible
old ground clearance.

John Weese also had a question about alarms:
>My son will be coming home soon from college for Easter break, and he wants
to
>install a car alarm in his '86 325es.  Does anyone have some experience on
>available systems out there that meet our requirements?...see "subject".
>Maybe "inexpensive" would be a better word to use than "cheap".

****I've installed many Cliffords, Alpines, Code Alarms, Vipers, Whistlers,
and few others, and I've found Viper to be the most reliable brand.  You can
just go with a basic Viper, and since your door locks require only a
negative trigger pulse, the basic model will cover this, no "built in door
lock relays" required on the alarm module.  If you want extras like starter
kill, domelight supervision, you may need to step up a model.  Door locks
and parking light flash are usually standard, starter disable might also be,
but make sure you're picky about installation, find an MECP certified
installer who listens to your needs and concerns, don't just shop for that
$99 INSTALLED alarm, because when you have everything done right the second
time at another shop you won't think $99 was so cheap.  Expect to pay
$170-225 installed for a decent setup out here in CA.  If you go with
Circuit City, insist on one of their more experienced installers, then relax
knowing that their warranty is good at any Circuit City nationwide including
one (hopefully) near your son's college.  Vipers usually carry a lifetime
warranty on all parts and labor (except remotes), that is if the shop you
buy from is worth their $.02.  Just my (professional?) opinion...

- -Rod Birch

1986 325 (yes, Viper alarm...)