Re: Buying Used BMW's on the net

["Scott Olson" <scottolson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I bought my first beemer (a '78 320I) from a friend for $1500,  then sold it
(still kicking myself) to get a 240SX that was more reliable.  Well after
two more cars I test drove a 86 325E at a used ford dealership.  The vehicle
broke down on me during the test drive,  major beemer-bummer.  I then had an
itch to scratch and searched the classifieds (paper) for beemers (should
Beemers be capitalized?).  I finally found an '87 325(E) (roughly three
blocks away) forsale on Classifieds2000.com  I test drove the car and amidst
all the visual problems (lights flashing) and audio cues (big thunking going
over bumps,  I bought the car for $2500.  I replaced the shock mounts, rear
shocks, and then started cleaning connectors and replacing lightbulbs, and
reset the oil and service lights after changing the oil,  and the car is now
immaculate.  Well,  not imaculate, it has little things but I have been more
than satisfied wth the net-purchase.  My experience so far is that although
parts may be a little more difficult to get a hold of,  there are still
junked and parting out BMW's out there.  This list and the parts-list have
been invaluable.  My project car ( read: a dream car that doesn't function
properly) is a '74 Bricklin SV1. That car is a b***h to get anything for.
Even the apparently american AMC engine is not supported by 95% of the
aftermarket and refab companies out there.  My advice is that if you are
buying an 80's BMW then you can get just as screwed buying from any dealer
as they are most adamant and better at hiding problems.  The used BMW that I
test drove (the one that broke down) the dealer kept saying that it wasn't a
problem,  it was the engine hadn't been run for a few days.  I prefer buying
private,  as people don't work on commision and are more willing to
negotiate prices and discuss problems.  My experience as well,  is that the
most important part and indicator of a car's value is it's exterior
condition.  If the car drives and looks great I think it is probably a
better buy than a car that looks ok but drives great.  A decent paint job is
nearly as expensive as having an engine rebuilt, and a dent in a fender is
as expensive as most major engine work.  Also the exterior of the car is
generally a good indicator of the manner in which it was driven.

Sorry for rambling, and also for the lack of paragraphs.  What are the
benefits of joining the BMWCCA
- -Scott Olson

scottolson@domain.elided

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 12:46:37 EST
> From: Cookies@domain.elided
> Subject: Re:buying used BMW's on internet
>
> In a message dated 11/28/98 10:55:27 PM Pacific Standard
> Time, owner-bmw-
> digest@domain.elided writes:
>
> << Hi ya'll,
>
>  	Joe wrote on the digest:
>
>  "Greetings fellow digesters:
>
>  With the Internet it has now become possible to find numerous BMW's
>  for sale nationwide.  Has anyone purchased a vehicle via the
>  Internet, or Roundel?  I have a higher level of confidence buying
>  from a fellow BMW CCA member through the Roundel, than I would "Joe
>  Blow."  Any feedback would be appreciated."
>   >>
>
> ~~~ Buying a used BMW, with todays labor & parts prices
> (unless you are a
> wealthy wrench) should be allocated to only a authorized BMW
> dealer. This way
> you can get the 2yr FACTORY BMW used vehicle warranty, which is very
> comprehensive and covers parts and labor. I would not buy a
> used BMW from a
> non'BMW dealer, as these cars are usually :
> A. cars that weren't cared for by a BMW enthusiast ("just
> another car")
> B. dealer bought the car at the car auction to make some
> bucks-no "history" on
> the car.
>
> Just my .02 cents worth.
> Randy
> cookies@domain.elided
> BMW CCA member
> 99' 323ia
> 98' 740iL
>
> ------------------------------

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