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Re:E30 shock replacement questions
- Subject: Re:E30 shock replacement questions
- From: "Ted Arneson" <teda@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 09:11:39 -0600
KC,
I just did this last weekend. Hope you got lowering springs, too! ;)
For the rear shocks, you put the bump stop on first. It will fit tightly and
you only need it to fit just past the threads on the shock rod. Then the dust
boot. I believe the boot has a metal washer in the top of it which fits over
the threads and rests on the shoulder before the smooth rod. Now put on the
new upper shock mount. Fit to car and done. (Hope I didn't forget too much.
But this is the basics.)
On the front struts, the Bilstein supplied boot fits over the bump stop and
rests on a land/shoulder near the top of the shaft. Next comes a washer, then
the upper mount, and finally the nyloc nut.
Seperating the ball joints requires pickle forks. I bought a set from Sears.
It has two handles and three different sizes of forks. I needed all sizes.
Now is a good time to do control arms as you'll likely damage the protective
boots anyhow. And they're not too expensive. Be sure the nuts on the joints
are loosened sufficiently but leave a few threads engaged to prevent launching
when the taper fit is disengaged. If doing control arms, too, you'll find the
access to the 22mm nuts a total pain in the ass. Mine weren't too tight
(thankfully!) and it was a matter of turning them 30 degrees or so at a time.
Then flip the wrench. You'll need an open end wrench for this. Helps to drop
the sway bar out of the way along with any heat shields/under trays. You'll
find them quickly so enough explanation.
I hope you have air tools for this job. Tightening the ball joints upon
reassembly can be a pain. In addition to air, I used jack stands to support
the car and then used a jack to lift up on the joint to tighten the taper.
IMO, without air tools, you'll never get the nyloc nuts tightened on the shock
shafts.
Good luck!
Ted Arneson
Windy City
KC wrote:
I just got a set of Bilstein Sport shocks today, and I have a few
questions for those of you who've done suspension work before.
1. I have all-new hardware for the rear shocks. New mounts, bump
stops, protective tube, etc. How do the bump stop and protective tube
fit on the shock? Turner's website says that the Bilsteins need both
(as I'd also assume...no use blowing seals with dirt on the piston
rod!). Just playing around tonight, I couldn't get the protective
tube to stay put. Is there a trick to this?
2. A friend who has done MacPherson struts before is going to help me
with the front. Are there any secrets to doing this? How hard is it
to separate the tie rod & control arm ball joints from the strut?
Any other hints would be much appreciated! TIA.
KC Boyce
'85 325e
E30 Eta Page: http://rikki.cc.colorado.edu/~k_boyce/
- --
Ted Arneson
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