E28 brake job

[rusmaster <rusmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

David,
	See comments below.

 
> Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 21:25:23 -0700
> From: dg <davehg"nospam"@domain.elided>
> Subject: E28 brake job
> 
> A friend and I (he has an 88 535isa) are going to replace the pads and
> rotors on each of our E28's. Need help with the following general
> questions:
> 
> 1. What about the wheel bearings? Are they replaceable or repackable?

Do they need replacing.  They don't have to be removed to do a brake job. 
Unless there bad.

> 2. Best mail order deals on rotors/pads? The roundel lists so many choices,
> I'd like to hear from fellow netters. Also, any parts or dealers I should
> stay away from? Dealer lurkers (you, Steve G), feel free to submit email
> prices and availability.

I've been using Steve G. and hes reliable, friendly and helpful.  And he has
some of the best deals around.  Give him a call.


> 3.Any other thoughts on easy things to do while we replace the brakes?

Why not the RL/BB upgrade.  This is the E32 front calipers and rotors up front
from an E32(7 series).  I bought the stuff from Steve.  The new rotors are
$100 each and the calipers you can get used from Zionsville AutoSport.  I
opted for new E32 calipers.  These are ~$150 each.  It bolts right up to the
excisting mounts.  Nothing else to do.  I'm hearing this upgrade is as good as
the E28 M5 brakes, if not better.  Anyway, the used calipers can run $50 each.
	My butt decelerometer says this upgrade is OUTSTANDING   :-)
	This is one of the best and cheapest upgrades I've done to improve
performance and saftey on my '88 535iS to date.


> Obviously, a fluid flush is in the works. I'd love to hear from netters on
> a cheap and easy bleeding method/parts.

The pressure bleeder in the best.  Fill, hook up, turn on air, open valves and
bleed side.  I do one line at a time.  But I've heard that you can do both
fronts on one fill, and the rears on one fill.  I use a hand pump vacum
bleeder.  It takes a little longer but it's better than pumping the brake.

 
> It seems like a straight-forward job, plus I have a factory repair manual.
> If it's any more difficult, do advise.

Again, easy as pie.  Your first time takes longer than you think.  Then it
gets faster as you do it more often.  Oh, you need a good, big breaker bar(at
least 18" and 1/2" drive, most use a 3/4 drive) to break the caliper bolts and
a high torque torque wrench.  You have to get that torque back when you put
the calipers back on  
	Alot of digester trim the dust sheilds while their at it for better brake
cooling.  I used a pair of tin snips to trim it down.

I have no advice on pads.  I've used Pagids from day one and have no
complaints.  Just a little dust.

Take Care,
Russ

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