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<driveshafts> & <02"s> Brakes and u-joints

      Don Miles wrote a very nice posting on replacing the U-joints on EARLY
BMW's, my 1969 2002 with longneck diff does have u-joints retained by
circlips. All later BMW's have swedged ujoints that can't be replaced by
following Don's procedure. Correct my if I'm wrong but that changed with the
advent of the short neck diff in mid-1969 and holds for both 4 and 6 cylinder
cars. The irony is that you can get the ujoints for the shafts that have
basically non-replaceable ujoints from the dealer but not the ujoints that
are replaceable. Go Figure! That the reason that places have sprung up to do
the machining to remove and replace the ujoints on all BMW's built since the
1970's.
      David Mckenzie writes about his 2002 brakes. It's been my experience
that the uneven pull of the brakes is usually the rear brake adjustment. In
the wisdom of non-self adjusting rear drums the slack that happens when the
adjustment goes off is the first thing that moves upon pushing on the brakes,
a simple test is pump the brake lightly and then see if it pulls straight, if
so its the rear adjustment. Air in the brake system should make for a spongy
pedal and will pump up. But if you're concerned, go ahead and flush and bleed
the system. A seizured caliper piston may cause a pull but it should pull
without the brakes being applied and one side should be hotter than another
from the increased drag.
Good luck and remember that brakes are one thing not to have be only working
so-so.

                                            Greg Mierz
                                     GregM2002@domain.elided
                                         Roster Manager
                                   BMWACA Puget Sound
                                  Editor MTecnic Zundfolge
                                  1969 2002Ti  (MPOWER)now with 390,000 miles