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bmw-digest Saturday, 3 December 1994 Volume 02 : Number 108
Forum for Discussion of BMWs
Richard Welty <welty@domain.elided>
Digest Coordinator
Contents:
re: FAQ-Replacing OBC bulbs
Re: Alarm & CD Changer
E36 Clutch
Mircrofiche Project
More on k-Jet idle problem
Re: bmw-digest V2 #107
More on K-Jet idle
Indian Made Oil Filter Problem(s)
Plastic Odometer gear
Send administrative requests to bmw-digest-request@domain.elided
For additional information on the BMW digest, see the end of this article.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: JasonVW@domain.elided
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 10:37:19 -0500
Subject: re: FAQ-Replacing OBC bulbs
>Section 19.9: Replacing OBC bulbs...
>
>Access the computer... this involves first taking out the glove box, and
right
>side dash board cover...
For those of you with an E30 318is (no trip computer), replacement of the OB
clock bulbs can be done in 2 minutes:
1) Pry off clock face with a finger nail or a pen knife exposing the clock
unit.
2) Depress the tabs on the top and bottom, and pull the clock part way out.
3) Release the harness latch on the back, and remove the clock.
4) There are two bulbs assemblies that fit bayonet-style into the sockets in
the back. Remove and replace the dead bulb assemblies with needle nose
pliers.
5) Reverse above steps.
Bulbs assemblies cost less than $10 each from the dealer.
Jason Wong
'91 318is
91K mi
- ------------------------------
From: Cocos@domain.elided
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 11:02:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Alarm & CD Changer
>>why mess with an aftermarket? The Alpine unit made for BMW can be purchased
through a dealer in Rondel for $325 to $350. Since the car is pre-wired,
installation takes about 2 hours at the most.
Because that same Alpine unit that you are buying for $325 to $350 costs $130
(Alpine 8026). Much like the same Alpine CD changer costs about $450 versus
the BMW CD changer (made by Alpine) costs $600 to $700 (?). Saving $200
sounds
VERY ATTRACTIVE to me, especially if I don't mind the hassle of
installation.>>
Armand,
I paid $435 for my CD changer through a dealer ad in Rondel. This unit, made
by Alpine for BMW, has a proprietary wiring harness that uses fiber optic
cable to connect to the tuner in the dash. Not something you'd want to use a
kludge on.
As for the alarm, the wiring harness uses a 12-pin connector on each end. I
suppose if you were able to obtain a wiring diagram it may be possible to
self wire, but IMHO, unless you're an EE, why risk screwing up your
electrical system to save $200?
If you like, I could send you a zerox of the installation instructions.
Regards,
Jeff
93' 318iS
84' 318i
- ------------------------------
From: Cocos@domain.elided
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 11:15:59 -0500
Subject: E36 Clutch
<<I bled my clutch before my last track session, and the problem hasn't
occurred since, though I can't verify that the two things have a direct
correlation. It did make the clutch action much smoother, however...>>
Herman,
I've noticed the same resistance going into 1st on my 93' 318iS. I've also
been wondering about a soft "whirling" sound when the clutch in engaged.
It's been there since new, so I've assumed it a natural characeristic. Any
comments?
Regards,
Jeff
93' 318iS
84' 318i
- ------------------------------
From: rodb@domain.elided
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 08:42:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Mircrofiche Project
I thought I would inform everybody of my current microfiche project. I
should say right up front that this project is a time/weather permitting
kind of thing.
I recently purchased through BAS the fiches for the E28 parts catalog
and repair manual. I don't want to have the hassle of having an old
antiquated mirco film reader hanging around and using up space so I am
planning on resurrecting the old Optronix film scanner at work (can do
10" by 10" at 12.5 um if needed) to scan the fiches into digital data.
Since this data will end up being a compressed binary image I don't
expect the final data size to be very large. My personal goal is to
then have the data either retrievable on computer or print it out
double sided.
Now I would like to give this E28 work to other BMW infobahners as well
as scan fiches for other models (time permitting) but I have to be
mindful of BMW's copyright. So I am looking for suggestions from
legally competent types on a way I can do this without getting in
trouble. I guess there is also the very slim remote unlikely chance
that BMW may authorize us to distribute this version of the data.
My own first thought is that if one already owns the microfiche version
of the data, it can't be illegal to own a digital version for private
use.
I'd also be interested in hearing from anyone who knows of there is a
suitable commercial product that we could use to organize all the image
data.
All suggestions, comments, volunteers and criticisms welcome.
- - --rod.
- - --
Rod Barman, Dept. of E.E., University of British Columbia
rodb@domain.elided
- ------------------------------
From: Peakay@domain.elided
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 12:22:46 -0500
Subject: More on k-Jet idle problem
First, thanks to everyone who offered advice on my idle problem.
Unfortunately, i have not been able to solve it and it still persists.
Below is a quick summary of the problem and what i've checked. BTW, the car
is a 1982 323i euro.
... For example, i did some air leak trouble shooting on it this morning.
After I was through, I reset the idle with the idle screw to the correct
rpm. After revving it a few times, it resumes idleing at a fast speed (with
engine warmed up), until i put a load on it (letting out the clutch with
foot on the brake), then it will return to around 850 rpm. Then, as soon as
i gas it again, it will return to a 1500 rpm idle. Ocassionally, if I sit at
a light it will slowly return to the correct idle speed.So far, I have
confirmed the following parts or symptoms:
* Aux. air valve -- tested with Probst book "clamp" method - good.
* Air sensor baffle plate adjustment and sensitivity -- It behaves just like
the book says upon testing and the adjustment is right.
* Throttle plate stop adjustment -- ok
* Mixture -- good
* Air leaks (false air) -- I spent the morning spraying carbuerator cleaner
on connections and taping and clamping any hoses that I could find that
looked as though they could be leaking.
* just about everything else ....
Now, finally, here is the interesting part. I was out testing it this
morning, and the problem still existed. So far, I've been unable to check
timing/advance related systems, so I decided to try something. I unplugged
the vacuum advance hose to the distributor just to see if the idle dropped,
and it didn't. I revved the engine a couple times to see if it would run
worse at high revs, but it didn't seem to. So, i decided to drive it, and it
drives exactly the same! This shouldn't be the case, should it? I mean, it
ran *exactly* the same with the supposed vacuum leak and no vacuum advance at
all. Am I wrong to think that something is wacky with the ignition?
Any and all input will be ver much appreciated!!!!
Paul King
- ------------------------------
From: "Harvey Chao" <Harvey_Chao@domain.elided>
Date: 3 Dec 1994 10:13:48 -0800
Subject: Re: bmw-digest V2 #107
RE>bmw-digest V2 #107 12/3/94
From: HermanC2@domain.elided
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 03:32:01 -0500
Subject: Re: E36 shifter problem
>>>Has anyone noticed any difficulty getting into 1st gear with an E36 5
speed?
It seems that if the car is completely stopped, the gear lever is gated and
it takes a pretty hefty effort to engage the gear. If one moves the gear
selector back after hitting the "gate" then moves back towards 1st, it flows
pretty easily. It is also "normal" and easy if you move the selector towards
2nd (not engaging it at all) then move to engage 1st.<<<
Jim,
This occurs in my E36 occasionally also. Instead of shifting to 2nd, I just
let the clutch engage slightly in neutral and then it goes into 1st just
fine.
When I posed the same question to the list about a year ago, someone
suggested that the clutch wasn't disengaging fully and suggested that I bleed
the clutch.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I had a similar problem with a VW diesel rabbit 4 speed which has a cable
clutch linkage.
If, when the shift lever wouldn't slide up into 1st, I immediatly droped it
into second and then right back up to try 1st again, it would then slide right
into 1st gear. I added a few ounces of "Tufoil" ( a PTFE Slick 50 type
product) and the problem went away. I'm not sure that I'd recommed that
today, but perhaps instead you might try Redline's MTF. I now use that in my
E28 5 speed and it really helped with the problem I was having with 3rd gear.
- ------------------------------
From: Peakay@domain.elided
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 14:36:09 -0500
Subject: More on K-Jet idle
Continueing from my last post, i think I have found the problem, but need
some more info. Please see below:
I went back out to look at the car and started playing with the vacuum lines.
The line going to the vacuum advance, which was coming from a connection on
the bottom of the throttle body (at approximately where the butterfly plate
sits) was not getting any vacuum at all, even with the engine revving. The
other line, to the retard on the distributor, was plugged into vacuum on the
mainfold. On my car, there was a line that came out of the top of the
throttle body (also at approximately where the butterfly plate sits) that was
blocked off. I examined it, and the length was just about the perfect length
for fitting onto the advance. Hmm...I plugged that into the vacuum advance,
which jacked up the idle. I reduced the idle with the adjustment screw and
now it the idle stays low all the time!
Obviously the previous owner or his mechanic monkied with the vacuum lines.
Now that I think I have the problem solved, i want to make sure that i am
connecting the hoses to the right lines. Can anyone confirm where these
lines are supposed to come from?
Thanks a bunch!!
Paul King
- ------------------------------
From: dje@domain.elided (Don Eilenberger)
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 94 16:21:00 EST
Subject: Indian Made Oil Filter Problem(s)
Garrett..
The problem I had was in the quality of the construction.
If you look at a German made BMW filter (or Slovanian, as
the current stock BMW ones are) - the sealing ring for
the cartridge type (not screw-on can type) is carefully
crimpted in place on the endplate. The one from India
is not - it's a simple piece of rubber that is pushed
into a recess in the endplate. On BOHICA - I once had the
Indian one, and one of the rubbers displaced from the grove
(perhaps from oil pressure), allowing the oil to bypass
the filter element - rendering it useless.
Luckily, I change oil frequently (when I can see it on
the dipstick - about 3-3.5k miles), so not damage was
done, but it made me decide NEVER, EVER to put a non-BMW
OEM filter in the car.. so even if they DO fix them,
they won't end up in any car I ever own.
Hope this is helpful..
=======================================
Don Eilenberger (dje@domain.elided)
=======================================
'79 R65 FrankenCycle - der Beemer
'87 535i BOHICA - der Bimmer
'75 25' Hunter - das Boot
=======================================
DOD#1177, BMW-CCA#104316, BMW-MOA#64000
=======================================
- ------------------------------
From: Walter G Barie <wgbst4+@domain.elided>
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 19:20:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Plastic Odometer gear
Since the odometer in my 528i has decided to die, I pulled the speedometer
today and of course the little plastic gear was cracked. Since I don't
want to spend alot of money, I recall that people have glued them back
together. Since the gear is probably nylon (a fun nonreactive plastic
that is almost impossible to glue) I know that superglue is not the
solution. I seem to remember someone on the list using a glue made for
nylon???? Other than that has anyone found a source for these gears yet,
other than sending it out to a VDO repair shop to get fixed. I could pull
one from a junkyard but the gears there are probably all plastic and probably
also broken.
*******************************************************************************
Walt Barie (wgbst4+@domain.elided, barie+@domain.elided)
Graduate Student
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, University of Pittsburgh
'79 320i DSP Solo II Car
'80 528i now without a working odometer:(
"You gotta first spin the dice in order to win the game" - esp '95
Of course what I say in no way reflects the views of the University....
******************************************************************************
- ------------------------------
End of bmw-digest V2 #108
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