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[alfa] Re: 24V timing belt replacement



Dean,
you do not have to have the dies if you JUST want to replace the timing
belt. The pulleys on the 24V are NOT notched like the 12V cams are,
meaning that there is no specific orientation of the cam pulley on the cam
shaft. The cam pulley bolts onto the end of the camshaft and is held there
by FRICTION (and the 88ft-lbs of torque on the end bolt). On the early 24V
engines, they had problems with the coefficient of friction between the
cam pulleys and the cam shaft, meaning that the timing could slip a degree
or two without the belt skipping. This problem was resolved by the time
the 24V's came to the U.S. (they were introduced in late '92 in europe, I
believe).
If you want to remove the cam seals, you have to lock the cams in
position, remove the pulleys, remove the seals, replace the pulleys witout
tightening them completely, install the timing belt, tension it (which
will make the cam pulleys rotate to exactly where they need to be +- some
integer number of teeth, then torque down the pulleys.
If just doing a t-belt, as long as the cams don't rotate more than 1
tooth, you can remove the belt, replace, and tension without doing
anything. If you stuff is not leaking at all, then I agree, leave it
alone. The only seal I would ALWAYS replace, no matter what, is the rear
main seal, which you woun't be seeing in any case.

ciao,
Karl
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