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Re: [alfa] Bleeding air out of the radiator, etc.alfa-digest V9 #972



Hi Biba:

Make sure you've got the heater turned on when bleeding the cooling system, and in my experience, the bolt from the water pump needs to be completely removed, not just loosened. It's not drilled like the bleeder on the manifold. I even put a few turns of Teflon plumbers tape on mine. That bolt doesn't need to be out when the engine is running, just during the initial cold fill, as it's at a very low level in the system.

If you'd like that clear hose to the reservoir to appear full, raise the reservoir above the level of the radiator cap to let some coolant flow downhill, install the cap, then return the reservoir to its normal level. It'll look full for a while, but eventually will show a few bubbles. Not a big deal. In any case, if your radiator's always full, the heater works, and the gauge is reading normally, it sounds like you're OK, anyway.

BTW, that 2 liter you put together for the Duetto looks extremely nice. No such thing as being too anal when the result looks like that.

Regards,

Dean


At 12:31 PM 11/23/2003, you wrote:

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 19:26:02 -0700
From: alfacybersite <acs@domain.elided>
Subject: [alfa] Bleeding air out of the radiator, etc.

I certainly hope Thomas A. Gonnella isn't reading this since he is
apparently channeling Fred. Damn scary thought. I really don't want
Fred's opinion since I know what it would be.

Installed Euro inlet manifold and air box some years ago along with a
fresh head and new (to me) cams in somewhat of a hurry about six years
ago. I use clear hoses on such items as the radiator reservoir to
radiator hose.

In the ensuing years the hose has never indicated there was a complete
vacuum (air in the line and?) so the water / Prestone would go up to the
radiator but never really indicated it was never being sucked back and
forth as it should be during the cold / hot stages. However, every time
I undid the radiator cap the radiator was completely full.

It gets worse. (Be patient)  I need to go visit a cousin I've not seen
for decades tomorrow a.m. who I actually want to see. Its way way away -
about 40 miles. I've not bothered you for awhile, but car is still
periodically cutting out. My theory was perhaps there is an air pocket
within the engine's coolant which causes hot spots which causes the
engine to partially seize up which makes it seem like it is cutting out.

Okay, I don't remotely buy it either but I'm really grasping at straws
at this point.

Unnnh, recently I mentioned something about the correct Euro bypass hose
if one (of the 'merican persuasion) changes their Spica to Webers along
with the 'correct' Euro inlet manifold and air box.

Well, I bought the hose about 3 or 4 years ago but never actually
installed it. Carried it in the trunk, just in case.

(Figure Fred has rolled over about 13 times by now and I'm not through).
Drained water / coolant thoroughly, flushed, hooked all up and installed
'new' Euro bypass hose. Kept the inlet manifold brass nut cracked, as
the blocks, and the bolt on the waterpump. Got coolant coming through
the former, but not the latter - meaning no water coming from the
waterpump's bolt. Tightened 'air vents' drove it a couple of miles,
still air in the reservoir to radiator clear line - a lot. Have let it
cool down as I've written this missive, same amount of air. Open the
waterpump's bolt, nada.

Can't be a no show in the a.m., so how does one get the damn air out of
the coolant passages and why won't coolant come out of the waterpump's
bolt, especially since that is where all the circulating action takes
place?

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA
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