Re: [alfa] 164 Fuel Pump Removal x 3

[Richard Welty <rwelty@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 15:55:28 -0800 "R. Stamm" <gparis@domain.elided> wrote:
> Your posting on AD#956 a couple days ago about removing the 164's
> fuel pump for the third time prompts this request.  While I
> totally sympathize with the necessity of your doing what seems to
> me a very difficult job,

actually, once you've got it down, it's just annoying, but goes fairly
quickly.

> Right now I
> am to the point of staring down at the thing in the trunk, having
> removed the necessary trim and panels.

leave the spare in, it'll make for a more level trunk floor while you're
laying on your side in the trunk working on it. also, if it's a windy
day, make sure something is blocking the trunk lid from closing on
you if you're working on it outdoors. i figured this out while in the
trunk working, so i used my leg to keep the lid from slamming
closed on me.
 
> Do you have any words of wisdom beyond the maintenance manual
> procedures?

yes.

while you have it apart, just replace the gasket (available from
vendors like DiFatta, Spruell, and Alfa Parts for ca. $6.) and the
two O-rings where the outbound and inbound fuel lines fit into
the top (the O-rings are available from NAPA, or from any hardware
store with a well maintained Midwest fastener display.)

the fuel pump assembly does not withdraw straight up. you will
have to pull it out at an angle. i found it necessary to spin it
just about 360 degrees while pulling up at an angle in order
to get it to come out. reverse to reinstall. it will hang and catch
and generally be obnoxious, but it will come out and it won't
take all that long to do.

> I have a supply of 8mm BMW hose and  Wurth
> high pressure clamps from working on the fuel rail.

use a nut driver or a socket to tighten these hose clamps, to make
sure that they're tight enough. getting the pump assembly in and
out 3 times was about 2 times too many for me.

>  Also have a
> few 4mm allen wrenches including a ball end.

you need the ball end guys for the back three allen head
screws. i used a regular 4mm allen socket for the other 5.

i just picked up a nice ball end metric allen set at our local 
averill park ace hardware store, so definitely they're around
and not all that hard to find.

> Hopefully, Richard, you have your short term exhaust problem
> solved.  I think if the front cat donuts are still ok, I would
> just bolt up two of the flange bolts and head for Albany.

they seem to be good, and i've gotten the old exhaust out.
the bolts holding the rear and center sections together were
comprehensively corroded, i ended using a combination of
dremel cutoff tools, a hacksaw, and a hand sledge and cold
chisel to get the whole stinking mess apart (i could have done
the whole thing with the dremel cutoff, but the wheels are a
little fragile and i ran out before i was done cutting.) the stubs
of two bolts and nuts are still stuck in the rear section, liberally
doused with liquid wrench. if i can't get them out with a hammer
and punch later today, it'll be time to apply heat.

the new center section should in theory arrive today. there
doesn't seem to be any way to wire the back end of the cat up
to the bottom of the car, so i need to install the center section
to hold the cat up (as well as quiet the car enough to make
it unobtusively to the mechanic's, as the inspection expired
on october 1st while the fuel pump was busted and not yet
replaced. no, i'm not having fun right now. wheeee.).

richard
-- 
Richard Welty                                         rwelty@domain.elided
Averill Park Networking                                         518-573-7592
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