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[alfa] Re: simplified alternator question



Hi Greg:

I've always heard that disconnecting the battery with the engine running was a sure-fire way to destroy the diodes (rectifiers) in an alternator, although it may be a valid test on a generator equipped car. Perhaps if your alternator was OK on the bench, it may not be now. Most of the parts stores around here have a testing machine they'll roll out to your car, that checks all the various charging components in situ. Haven't you got one around there? A voltmeter will tell you if the system is charging, although if it's not, the meter won't diagnose your problem. Whatever the case, the original alternator is very weak, even at best, and I've got a 65 (or 70?) amp unit on my '74 Spider that was a nice upgrade. Everything works better, from the headlights to the wipers, and on a cold, rainy day when all the accessories are needed, the reserve capacity is necessary,too. The alternator is a simple bolt-on upgrade, for <$100, so let me know if you'd like the details. It also looks original, if that's of any importance. Finally, if you'd like to try a replacement regulator, I may have a good one somewhere, that you're welcome to have, if I haven't already tossed it. I'd be happy to look.

Regards,

Dean


At 10:37 AM 10/29/2003, you wrote:

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 08:02:56 EST
From: GModelle@domain.elided
Subject: [alfa] simplified alternator question

Fellow Alfisti,
I have a 1972 spider with a transplanted 1750 weberized engine. The bosch 33
amp alternator is producing power on a test bench. However, when installed in
the car, the battery slowly looses charge and the engine will quit if the
positive terminal is disconnected from the battery. Curious and eager to place the
blame at the regulators doorstep, I sure could use some words of wisdom.
modelle in somers point
115.01
115.02
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