Re: Removing Spider Steering Arm

[C2slayman@xxxxxxx]

Jon,
       I've not tried to remove the steering arm, but I have removed the 
idler arm.  A  sharp blow on the side of the knuckle seems to unseize the 
joint.  This trick is also
effective on all the suspension knuckles and ball joint knuckles.  It seems 
like a side blow sets up some kind of vibration that breaks the seizure of 
the taper fitting more effectively than a knuckle fork or puller.

Good Luck,
Charlie


> Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 23:15:30 -0700
> From: Jon Pike <jhpike@domain.elided>
> Subject: Removing Spider Steering Arm
> 
> Hello all..
> 
> OK, been trying to get mine to budge for a bit here..
> 
> Details:  77 Spider, Burmann box (with the flat plate not the adjusting 
> screw on top) No problem getting the castle nut off, didn't see a key, 
> though it could be on the far side of my laying under the car.
> 
> I cranked on it with a friend's pittman arm puller, till the puller 
> screw threads started coming out in long shavings, and the pushing end 
> of the bolt started to mushroom slightly. (!!)
> 
> Nada...
> 
> So, am I doing something wrong, or is this just a reeeeeeeealy tight 
> one?  And what kinds of tricks should I try from here to get it off?
> 
> Reasons to pull the arm are, I want to replace the lower seal (box has 
> been dry for ?? how long) and there is the last tie rod end stuck in the 
> arm.  I mangled the end, since the puller I borrowed for that was a 
> little off, and now I can't push straght on it anymore.
> Guess I need to  dress it down with a file, which I thought if I had it 
> and the arm off the car, would be eaiser, or just use the BFH and room 
> to swing..
> 
> At any rate, I'd appriciate any hints!
> 
> Jon
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