FW: 164 poor starting

[Jonathan Coates <jon@domain.elided>]

Richard, your e-mail bounced so I am sending this to the digest FYI

-----Original Message-----
From:	Jonathan Coates [SMTP:jon@domain.elided]
Sent:	Tuesday, November 19, 2002 7:26 PM
To:	'Richard Welty <rwelty@domain.elided>'
Subject:	164 poor starting

Cold starting issues can be real cold start, or not-running-for-a-while 
issues.
Cold start is taken care of by the Temp. sensor on the T.stat housing, it's 
the one with the Bosch connector that you can't easily see, not the one 
with 2 spades on it (1 big, 1 little).
If you dont have the Manuel, let me know and I'll dig out the Temp. / 
resistance values for you.

Not running for a while can cause a drop in fuel rail pressure if the fuel 
leaks (internally or externally) and drops the fuel pressure.

Bosch likes to have full fuel pressure at the rail even before you turn the 
key, so if the system has to pump up, it takes a little while to get 
started.
If the pipework is full of air when you try to start, it takes even longer 
to get the air out and replace it with fuel.

Fuel leak places are :-
Fuel rail connections
Injector connections
FPR connections
These you can see FAIRLY easily under the hood/bonnet.

Where the plastic lines connect to the steel lines behind the engine 
(access through RHS rear inner fender) PITA to get at.
Inside the fuel pump (check valve goes bad)
FPR fault (passes all pressure out of the system over time back to the 
tank)

Other starting issues are sometimes only present with a cold engine, such 
as:-
Battery voltage - cold engine is harder to crank over and mixture less 
likely to burn so cranking takes more amps and more time.
Bad ECU ground - one of the screws in the RHS (non AFM) end of the intake 
plenum.

HTH Jonathan
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