73 GTV in junkyard, Bay Area, CA

["TJ" <tj@domain.elided>]

I wanted to notify the list that there is/was a 1973 GTV in a local
Pick-n-Pull here in the Bay Area (at least it was still there as of last
week) that appears to be a complete and potentially running car.
They're apparently not interested in parting it out at this point, but
I've not yet seen it.

According to my brother the car is complete, and is in decent condition.
I am planning on going to view it tomorrow, but I don't think there is
much I can do with it as I certainly am in no position to bring it home
and they're not interested in selling parts.  Doubtful there would be
many parts that would even be relevant to my car anyway (yes, I know,
alternator, misc. engine bits like that, but for the most part, it's not
a good parts donor for an early carb'd car).

If you're interested let me know, perhaps a local lister needs a donor
car, or has interest in rescuing a pre-smog GTV.

Ciao,
TJ

TJ Noto		AFM #134  	Cowpoke Racing-"Friends in Slow Places"
http://www.cowpokeracing.com
95 Ducati 916 Strada
96 Ducati Monster 900 (Chela's)
61 Ducati Falcone 80			
70 Norton Commando Fastback	
73 BMW 3.0 CS ("deviated from museum reliquary standard"-Perez)
97 BMW Z3 (Chela's)
77 Mercedes 280C (Mimosa)
67 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GT Veloce	
00 Ford F150 Supercab		
87 Suzuki RG250 (For Sale!)
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-alfa@domain.elided [mailto:owner-alfa@domain.elided] On Behalf
Of
> Kevin Trent
> Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 7:18 AM
> To: alfa@domain.elided
> Cc: JeffreyOlson@domain.elided
> Subject: Re: Removing Spider waterpump, HELP!
> 
> At 06:30 AM 11/15/02 +0000, you wrote:
> 
> >It looks like I have to remove the crankshaft pulley to remove the
> >waterpump on
> >my '84 Spider!  <snip..>
> >Any suggestions?  Should I try to remove the crankshaft pulley or
remove
> some
> >of the studs?  I think the crank pulley is safer just so I don't
break a
> >mounting stud.  What will I need, a impact wrench, puller, etc.?
> >
> >The radiator, fan shroud, fan, etc. are all removed.
> 
> I'm perpetually behind in reading the AD so I'm assuming that someone
has
> already responded with the "double nut the bottom water pump studs and
> remove them" solution.
> 
> I did this repair recently and the double nut solution did not work
for
> me.  I could not get the double nuts to keep from turning on the stud,
> hence the stud would not turn, and I was concerned that I would strip
or
> break the studs and have a real problem.  What did work was to remove
the
> crank pulley, and removal was surprisingly easy:  I used a 3/4 drive 1
1/2
> socket (engine was from a 76 spider) attached to a 16" 1/2 drive
ratchet
> (with 3/4 to 1/2 adapter).  I then held the socket & ratchet against
the
> frame on the exhaust side, and had my daughter bump the starter and
the
> pulley nut spun right off (first, remember to bend back the lock tab
if it
> has one).  The only shortcoming of this method is retorquing the front
> pulley on reassembly - it is difficult to apply torque without turning
the
> engine or stressing the rubber flexdisk on the drive shaft.  I never
did
> get the nut up to full factory spec, but have had no problems.
> 
> //kct, Powell, TN
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